Chainsaw Bars…

Nice. Just cause. Or, I want. Two of the best reasons to do anything in life.

My short bars are 32’s. I run Oregon .63, 75 CK semi skip chain. Stihl is a harder chain so it will keeps its edge better, but IMO not enough better.



Owl

 

And I think I might try a semi-chisel. I’ve only used full chisel. I’ve got access to a good supply of ironwood. I love burning the stuff, burns like coal but tough on the fangs. After cutting a full tank of gas on it, the teeth REALLY need to be touched up. Maybe better off with the semi-chisel? Slower I’ve heard but holds its edge better?

 

Since switching to Sugi and Tsumura, I have not kept up on saw bars or technology changes so this may be completely outdated.

Stihl ES bars are solid. Lightweights are solid but if tweaked right the insert can pop. I think Oregon glues instead of welding now, especially if he core layer is aluminum. If you see the row on top and bottom of the bar of the little dimples/spots, that the welds holding the laminations together. Laminated bars are three layers welded or glued together. Layers save weight the middle generally is a lighter materialThe layers will come apart from each other when they delaminate, like plywood when it swells and separates. I would not say it’s common but it does happen. Solid nose and solid bars are not always he same thing and can not be used as a reliable identifier.

How Steel Chainsaw Bars are Made - Stihl Factory Tour

https://www.madsens1.com/how-a-reduced-weight-bar-affects-the-per



Hopefully this helps someone.



Owl

 

While you are in a world be dammed spending spree you might as well get a Stihl chain.

 

X2
.050 chain is just more common

 

Oregon will be most forgiving if you are hand filing. Stihl has a rep of holding an edge but is tougher to hand file. Carlton is harder than Oregon from what I've read...holds an edge like Stihl. I've never felt like the Oregons dull prematurley unless I dirt them or am cutting some foul wood. But then again, I've never ran Stihl RS chain so perhaps I'm blissfully ignorant. lol

Good price on now discontinued Oregon LGX 20" loops...$17.50ea. If you don't want to try the Stihl, this is the stuff most will recommend.

2PK Oregon 72LGX072G 3/8".050" 72 Drive Loop for 501 84 26-72, H47 72, 33RS 72 | eBay

 

As far as chains I have run oregon exl right now I am trying out laser and so far pretty impressed and the price is right I do have a loop of Carlton to try next. Know out of the 3 Carlton is the most expensive
All my chains are 3/8 .050 chisel chains

 

I have several sugi bars 20” 24” 28” 32” and two Husqvarna 36”s that are apparently sugiharas also, all of them are large mount husky. Also all 3/8 pitch. I don’t see any advantage in going with any shorter other than the “jewelry” factor.
BUT what I have recently decided that I want/need is a 24” lightweight bar in .325 for a small mount Husqvarna, but it doesn’t look like anyone makes one.( at least not that I have found)
It seems like this would be the perfect setup for bucking in all my log piles with my 357 and minimizing bending over

 

24" K095 mount

24'' Sugihara Light Bar for Husqvarna, 3/8'', .050''

 

I don't think there is a .325 bar longer than 20" that I've seen. Unless you use a .050 hard nose bar.

 

By a 3/8th one and swap the tip?

 

Just saw this and ordered a 2pk. Don't really need them but the price is right. They won't go bad.

 

I’ve thought about this

 

Wouldn’t a 3/8 give you a larger groove in the bar and therefore prematurely wear it out? I’m think sloppiness side to side would also affect the cut?

 

As long as the gauge is the same, .050, .063 ect, it doesn't matter.

 

3/8 is the spacing between rivets(add 3 then average). The gauge of the chain (.050, .058, .063) designates the width of the driver links, which ride down in that bar groove. For the slop you speak of, you need to run .050 chain in a .063 bar.

 

Standard OEM bar should work fine for you. I cut a lot of wood when I only owned one saw. So much so the paint was almost gone. Just flip it for even wear and dress it now and then and you should be good to go.

I just like the reduced weight of a lighter weight bar. I bought this second generation 20" Tsumura bar last year and it seems to be holding up well. 25" Tsumura bar the only other lightweight bar I own.

 

Yep, mixed up my decimals and gauge/pitch between .325 and 3/8 vs .325 and .050

 

When I was looking for my Tsumura 20" bar I didn't notice and .325 bars longer than 20". I don't think such an animal exists in 24".

 

Well it should…!