Chain sharpening tutorial.

Yawner I'm sure there's something in this thread that may help. This is also a good place to post pics for tips.

 

I've watched Billy for a while now. I believe I can do a fairly decent job of hand sharpening chains and "Getting the Gullet". I have a little learning yet to do on hand filing my square cut 3/8 chain as I haven't had much practice on it as I don't use that saw that often. The .325 semi and full chisel I believe I have dialed in pretty good. The problem I have is that I am really sold on using the progressive raker guages like what Billy is using in this video, and can't find one of these guages for my top handled saw which has a 3/8 LP (Low Pro or picco) chain. Does anyone use a progressive raker guage on these smaller chains? If so, where can I find one? I have progressive raker guages for 3/8 and .325 chain already. Thanks! Derick

 

Does Husky make one on their roller file guide for 3/8lp?

 

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/husqvarna/505698103

There ^^ ya go.

 

But this one looks like it isn't Progressive though. In that it goes over 2 cutters and averages/uses those heights to get the correct raker height. I'm looking for a guage that sets each raker according to each cutter. Separate from any cutters behind or ahead of the one you are working on. I've been blessed with the ability to find metal with my chains and it will lead to the one tooth needing a lot more material taken off it. So I don't want to "average" the raker height for the damaged, now sharpened, albeit shorter tooth, with a almost new, longer tooth which proceeds the damaged tooth, which this one looks like it does. I'm looking for something like this only for 3/8 Low Pro. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/husqvarna/596285102

 

Husqvarna Depth Gauge Tool

 

Thanks Wolley ! When I clicked on the link at first, it didn't have a size. I thought, this can't be a one size fits all type raker can it? Then I seen the drop down menu to choose the sizes. I could've sworn I looked all over Baileys website before, but couldn't find anything. Guess it pays to look at the details... and drop down menus!

 

My bad.

 

Quick question. What size files do I need for a .325 chain? Helping my boss sharpen the chain on a saw and haven't used anything else but 3\8

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Mike in Okla

 

Or 3/16 in sae. EDIT: (sorry, I could not see the above pic showing standard fractions^^^ when I replied)

 

It was added at the same time as you posted. I saw your post after editing mine to add the second table.


Mike in Okla

 

Thanks all, I doubled down on that conversion and looked it up
Chain is insanely dull, the last time he used the saw it cut awful so he and his son had a race. Stihl= half a log cut electric chainsaw= 3 logs cut

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I started out years ago by filing my rakers. I filed them right down to the guide mark, thinking it was where they were supposed to be set. I was using a stihl 031 and it didn't have any problem and the chains were smooth cutting in birch, aspen, and oak.

Years later, I got a stihl 390. The new saw pulled ok, but didn't have the grunt that 039 did, so I ported it. It ran a lot better. I filed my chains to .025 with a "lay across the teeth" gauge. They cut ok when new, but as they wore down, the chain would cut slower and slower. That made me decide to grind the rakers with my chain grinder. I would take them down to where I could look along the chain and see the top plate over the raker. Now it would cut.

After rocking a few teeth and hitting nails, the teeth were different lengths and the saw would get jumpy, grabby, so I went back to the "lay across the teeth" gauge. The chains were much slower, even when razor sharp. I have been filing my rakers like that for a long time now. I sat down yesterday and thought really hard about what I had learned over the years... sharp chains cut faster, and shorter depth gauges cut faster, but mismatched teeth and universal rakers don't work.... BINGO I needed a progressive gauge that would match each raker to it's tooth.

I looked online and they were $10. Over priced, but it would cost more than that just to drive to a dealer, so I made my own that is a bit more aggressive than the store bought models. It turned out pretty nice. I used it yesterday, but it's rainy and muddy, so I can't run the saw yet to see how it cuts. I'm excited to put the chain in some wood and see how it cuts.

 

It’s all in the angles. See if this makes sense to you.

 

Wood wolverine- I understand. I was just explaining how my raker filing has changed over the last 20 years.

 

Bump.


I started the vid 11 minutes in, lotta shootin' the breeze.

 

Interesting results.

 

You know what they say, "Different strokes for different folks"
I've had really good luck with the husky guide, but it's time to replace it. I've watched a lot of Buck'n chain sharpening videos.......I don't get it. Also hardly ever cut pine/fir. I'll keep my guides for when I'm in the shop, may not use the guide in the woods when it's just a quick touch up.



This one has just about had it.


I generally file the depth guide first on the "SOFT" side, then I go after the tooth, that way I'm not touching a sharpened tooth with a piece of steel to set depth. If i mess up and don't get the gullet, I'll go through with just a 7/32 and clean it up.

 

I like the husqy tooth guide but the depth gauge is funky, can't get used to it, I need to sharpen mine a bit more for hardwood and test it out.