Haven't posted in a while but I'm still kickin. Working on my 40'x80' shop and looking at where to install the Fisher XL. Side walls are 16' so peak is 20-30' foot something? Can the pipe be too long, what/where do you recommend for the install?
Nah, put a damper in the pipe, you'll be fine...worst case scenario you might need a second damper, but doubtful.
Glad to see you come back around Unicorn1 Do you want the stove close to a sidewall or out somewhere near the center of the building or along a gable wall?
I’m at 28’ and ok pretty sure the difference between inside and outside temperature is greater here.. put in damper you will be fine in Texas; we’re going negative soon
There is stove pipe, single or double wall, and then there is chimney pipe, single wall stovepipe has it's limitations due to possible creosote forming.
Wall thimble install questions: I'll still looking at installing either my Fisher XL or Grandpa in my shop. It's a 1950's pipe built shop, metal sided and that's it. 1. I think going through the wall is my best bet. 2. Can I buy a wall thimble with 45 degree piping? 3. How far up the outside wall does the cap need to be? 4. Here's two old picture of where I'd like the new wall thimble to go. 5. After looking at the picture, I could move it to the right centered on the wall. I guess cutting a hole in the roof is no big deal. Difficult for me to plan! 6. There's a built in welded bench along 3/4's of the inside wall shown, all or part can be removed. 7. I'm having some issue with my hip so meds and the office chair today, I'd have the stove close to the side wall and middle of the shop. Vintage 2"x6" 'are the only combustibles I see on the roof, would I have to go above the roof peak with the pipe? How's everyone doing? Heathy, wealthy and wise?
2. They make these in 5”, 6”, 7”, 8” and if I’m not mistaken insulated and uninsulated. Ventis 6'' Class-A 30 Degree Wall Pass-Thru Can’t recall exact code…something like measuring from the top of cap 10ft over to the roof the cap would need to be 3ft above the facia in that picture photo. So 3ft above roof at facia and you can’t measure less than 10ft level horizontally to the roof. Those are minimum requirements. I’d go up 8ft-10ft above facia on a roof that large which greatly would extend your horizontal measurement to the roof to much more than the 10ft minimum horizontal measurement required. You have lots of down draft potential coming across the top of that roof at minimum measurements for that location. A centrally located (coming out the roof peak or just beside it and extending 3ft-6ft above it) stove and chimney is best. Especially for that big of a building. If it’s uninsulated you’re going to have a hard time heating that shop even with two Fisher’s burning full tilt. Locating any stove to middle of the building with double walled stove pipe is going to be the best way to distribute heat inside and you’re going to need double walled stove pipe to keep draft high and hot to prevent creosote build up inside the pipe. Next best stove location is middle inside wall as you mentioned, but it won’t do much for heat. In an uninsulated building with that much ceiling height I’m not sure moving the stove and chimney to the middle of the floor/building will help much either. If it’s uninsulated you’re going to need a fuel oil tank sized wood stove and a 100 acres of timber to feed it. LOL!
Yes, the lack of insulation is killing me. Everything in the shop is temporary until I decide on new exterior metal. For what I'd like to have shop wise it might be cheaper to build new.
3700 foot elevation, we get blizzards! I currently use a diesel fired heater and it will take the edge off, just don't like the noise.
My opinion; If your putting this pipe on your XL, you need nothing but straight pipe and no damper in the pipe. That is what your door draft knobs are for. Back in 1976 when my Father got our first Fisher, we had the Installer and the sales rep here and in the 3 Fishers we have had over the years, we never had a pipe damper, and was told by both it was NOT needed. Now, there are some who will contradict this but you can control your rate of burn by simply shutting the draft down on the doors. As far as length, the XL has a 10" pipe as my memory serves, You could go 50ft with no issues!
I have a 40x80 as well and have been trying to decide where to put the stove. I am split between sidewall or central and 20 ft from one end.
I think only a totally ignorant (unknowing) person would contradict that stove controls are how a person controls the rate of burn. It’s just not the only means of controlling that rate of burn. Just because some Fisher salesman in 1976…dare I say even someone building or installing Fisher stoves…said a stove pipe damper wasn’t needed in no way means they knew what they were talking about. True…the pipe damper wasn’t needed to control the stove. Not true, that a pipe damper couldn’t still be a benefit* to the stove and how it was used. Not true that pipe damper caused creosote, which would be from improper use at the wrong time…two problems at once. *The benefits of pipe damper use are in my quotes post below and help extract maximum heat out of the stove by closing the pipe damper and opening stove air controls…used in the coldest days/weeks of the year. In fact, if a person takes the time to research antique stoves history 76 years prior to Fisher stoves and even far earlier then you will see that the pipe damper had more that one purpose and it’s use was not singular in nature as so many seem to misunderstand. Cookstove range literature is one easy hint of where to search. Many stoves and ranges well prior to 1900 not only mentioned the proper uses of a pipe damper, but the stoves themselves came with a pipe damper when you purchased the stoves. I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again, the only thing really modern in todays stoves are catalytists and bi-metal regulators, that’s it. Stove control via bi-metal regulator even goes baco to the 19030’s. Secondary air is not new, but was built into wood/coal stoves built prior to 1900. The point: old stove designers were at their pinnacle from 1875-1920 and all designs as well as the pipe dampers proper use was already well documented. One has to keep in kind one control is before the fire, the other above the fire and in the chimney. That alone should indicate a likelihood of different “effects” each has, or can have. Below I shared information shared with me by others from long ago. Information that is backed up and well documented, as mentioned above, even long before my mentors were born.
So, are you saying (I) am Ignorant to the situation before I comment? Because there is a Large load of variables here. How long has your experience been on this topic AND if you go back in history to the pot belly stove and a fire place, many had NO way of control the rate of burn (BUT) the pipe damper. Many of the older stoves had a crude vent slide or dial, many leaked air like a back door was open, A Fisher can smother a fire in minutes simply by shutting the draft knobs, HENCE controlling the burn! I do it all the time...
What are the wind conditions like there? This will increase draft. Longer stove pipe will increase draft. It will also be cooler the higher it goes which may set up conditions for creasote formation. I live on the prairie and the winds are pretty strong. I have two dampers on my wood furnace in the basement and a barometric damper. The stove on the main floor doesn't have as tall of a chimney, I only need one damper there. I did need two when burning coal but that's different. Burning wood it is fine with just one so far. If it were me doing it I would at least put one damper in 18" from the stove pipe adapter. Better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it. Congratulations on having a Fisher XL. I have always wanted one of those. I'd be happy to take it off your hands should you decide to part with it.
