That's why you slime um. You should see the two I did, looks like a pin cushion. I don't know about the rims, I try to just drive this stuff.
They used to make Slime specifically for tubes. Pretty sure they still do. You are correct in that regular slime in tubes is not recommended.
But look how big they are!!! I have 5-15" tires on the front. Down time is the biggest killer. Its a 3 hr one way drive to my property. And i go for the weekend...giving me 1.5-2.5 days to do what i need . If i cant find the guy up the road at his shop or house or his dad im outta luck, plus tje time to dismount and mount which is not huge but still a pain. I dont have all my tools and stuff so always worki g with what i jave and everything takes 2x as long there.
Size doesn't matter as much as popularly. My front wheel assist tires cost more than the rears. Bummer that you have that much trouble. I guess I should be greatful of urban sprawl, my tire shop is now 3.5miles away.
My tire guy is 2 miles or so. But he works for himself on his own time not just waiting around for me on weekends. And then its 7-10 miles to the next towns but they hardly work saturdays and dont drip everything for me.
I haven't had much luck with "Slime". I have 15's on the front of the tractor & have used a half a gallon in each & still no luck. I would clean up the rims with a wire brush on a angle grinder to be able to better evaluate the rim. I like to use DuPont "Extend" instead of primer after cleaning the rim. It works like a gun metal bluing to stop the rust action & turn it into a primed metal. Ditto on using tubes when fluid filling tires. If you have a hole in the tube, turn it into a float toy & put a fresh tube in. Patches will not hold up to the fluid. As mentioned, the fluid level should be up over the top of the middle of the rim. However, you don't want to totally fill the tire with fluid. They need the pocket of air at the top for cushioning. The following PDF file is a handy reference for determining how much fluid you will need to fill your tires. Note the web link below will not take you to a web page. The PDF file will automatically download www.agf.gov.bc.ca/resmgmt/publist/200Series/210104-1.pdf If you decide to go with calcium water & want to do it your self, a local concrete plant is a good source for it.
If you can't find anyone to foam the tires check out a Caterpillar dealer - they may do them for you. We just got a new set for the telehandler (Cat Lull) at work a year ago - they have to be foam filled as we move hydrogen with it - pretty sure they were over $8k...just powerplant money Another good product for badly rusted surfaces in Rustoleum Rust Reformer - it's a milky white product that reacts with the rust and forms a hard black almost epoxy like surface
Do you remember which brand of slime you used? I have an experiment going on the gator with the name brand slime in one side and the multi-seal in the other. No flats in either so far. I haven't had any trouble with patches holding up on tubes with calcium or methanol. I'm planning on switching to the beat juice as needed in the future.
The tubes with the slime in them already are Slime Smart Tubes. http://www.slime.com/shop/category/products/smart-tubes/ I really don't care for the stuff but I've used them on super thin branch cut turf tires to put off buying a whole new tire for as long as possible.
Yes, the "Slime" doesn't work for me. I have tried it in the mower tires as well & still no luck. I have tried adding more than the suggested amount as well & it still didn't work. I am talking in the middle of the tread, not the side walls. So I have given up on it & just patch the tires or put in plugs as appropriate.