Whatever you get sneak up on the rpm. The D&H at least will not need the full 540rpm's. The blade is tensioned for 1200 rpm and on mine full 540 is close to 2000 rpm. Way to fast...... butt squeezing fast.
Hey thanks for the information on the DH Buzzsaw. I saw that model online and was glad to see they are still making them. Knowing the history behind it is great too, so thanks. I am not arguing with anyone regarding the PTO versus the belts, BUT if they can get a good deal on an old Buzz saw found on Craigs List or whatever, tractor dealerships still have belts that can be bought and spliced. Its not as easy as setting up a pto one granted, but not a deal breaker either.
Isn't all that hard to make a belt model into a PTO model. A angle drive off a combine, Old Ford N series tractor belt pulley either one and use a pto to drive a short belt on the saw. I did it to one I used to own. Al
Yeah I never thought of that. I know of several sitting in fields that never seem to get any use, but around here people have things they refuse o part with even if they are unused.
Sharpening, besides the hand file or if you get fancy a power grinder ( brand name Jockey) that can be mounted on the saw, you will need to set the kerf ( clearance ) the best way on a steel blade is by swagging the tooth ( hand tools available, mashes the tooth face back so it is wider that the saw body) other method involves hammering the tips over a bit( .025.035) alternating left right. This usually requires the blade be dismounted. Swagging can be done in place. if you have very old blades then you will need to anneal the tips first before either method is used. Every so often the blade body will need to be tensioned so it runs true ( not wobbling) at your particular rpm. Various shops can do this, around $1.75/ inch for a cost factor + shipping. If the blade gets over heated and becomes dished it might not be possible to correct it. Insufficient kerf or extremely dull blade are the main culprits. Dull blades can lead to cracking of the main body from the gullet to the center of the blade. Federal law dictates replacement at that point ( old school was to drill a small hole at end of crack which would sometimes stop it from traveling further). So blades available- Steel, Carbide tip brazed on, or Inserted tooth either steel or carbide inserts. the last has multiple merits over the first 2 but the cost up front is quite high. hope this info is of some interest- Chris - Mr. B's Blades - 25 years and counting company is over 70 years old.
That's how mine is, Don't ask me where the gear box is from,just parts laying around. Flat belt is from a round baler.
NICE! I really need to find one and set one up with a separate engine only so I could use it with my log loader as a slasher.
I have an engine to power it, I am not sure the HP, 30-45 HP reefer engine that would be perfect, but honestly I want to use it on my PTO generator more. Its kind of a pain to hook up my tractor to my generator when the power goes out. It seems I just hook it up when the power comes back on. It would also keep hours off my tractor, not to mention getting full 83 amps/20,000 kw out of the jenny. I can only get about 60 amps/14,000 kw now.
