No, but I would like to have one. It would be a great addition to my arsenal because using my log loader I could buck up 12 foot wood into stove length all done mechanically. I think they look scary to most people, but statistically I think there is far greater chance of a person being hurt by a kick back from a chainsaw bucking wood then with a buzz saw lobbing off fingers. Production wise, it is picking up the wood that is fatiguing and the bigger the wood, the harder it gets. I would think cutting bigger wood up with a chainsaw, then the smaller wood up with the buzz saw would work best. Cutting small wood up with a chainsaw is kind of tough sometimes, but my back anyway, cannot tolerate lifting big sticks of wood.
I love my buzz saw,use it for the smaller stuff that's a little bit difficult with the chainsaw bending over.
here's one of mine. Safer than a chainsaw, faster especially with 3 people, stays sharp for a long time.
Yes I now have 2 of them. This one was my grandfathers, he purchased it new when he was a young bloke, God only knows how much wood it has cut over the years. It is a Dayson saw bench built by a family owned company E day and son, that still operates in Ballarat, now called EE Day and sons. Sunday I received another one as a birthday present from my parents, it's also a Dayson but a slightly later model that has better guards and has done a lot less work, I haven't taken any pictures yet it's still wrapped up in a tarp on the back of dads trailer. I like using the buzz saw for cutting limb wood any thing under 8" I bring home in 6' lengths to be blocked up by the buzz saw, 8 to 12" diameter I will cut 3' lengths to load on the trailer and cut them in to 12" blocks once home. Bigger than 12" gets blocked up on site. Bigger than 20" gets blocked and split in half or quarters before loading . I like both chainsaws and buzz saws equally, chainsaws for bigger wood and buzz saw for smaller diameter wood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Buzz saws are really nice but only if there is 2 or more (preferably 3) people working together. To me the ideal is to fell and buck the smaller lots into manageable lengths and weight then move them to a buzz pile. When the pile is big enough (can be huge to humongous) then have a buzz party.
What back wood said is what we did as a kid. Dad's saw at the time was fixed in place so the logs were skided close them piled for later buzzing. Back then we didn't have chain saws just two man cross cuts. So the bigger stuff like 10" and above were split with wedges into halves. Usely buzz day it was dad and 2 of his brothers and my brother and I taking turns throwing rhe cout offs into the wagons and pick up. Later dad got a hold of a mounted saw he put on his WC Allis, later WD. I got rid of my 3 pt saw last spring but still have my monuted belt saw. I usually mount it =on the Massey Harris 30 but some times one of the 44's will be put in use. I only use it for stuff less than 8' long and 8" dia. as I usually am working alone. Al
This is the exact setup I grew up with. Cut wood at my Grandparents every year for most of my youth. 8" - 10" poles on the buzz rig, 5 people working. Made firewood for 3 families that way for many years.
Thanks guys I am looking to get a new one as many of the older units around here look totally worn out and belt driven ,since I need a Pto unit even less selection.My only other question is Carbide tip or not?
My uncle has a carbide tip blade on his ferguson saw bench (buzz saw). It's really good. The bloke that sells them here reckons they will cut 60 cubic meters (16.5 cords) of fire wood before sharpening. I have used it and liked it but it just doesn't sound as good as an old school tool steel blade, it does not have the high pitched zing/ring. Plus I can sharpen a old style blade. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Trying to figure out a way to quantify it. Since you are crosscuting it's not as dependant on sharpness to cut. I've never had to sharpen it for use, just a touch up once a year or so.
I personally feel that the carbide would be too sensitive to any little stone and chip or come off. That and not being able to hand sharpen it. A buzzsaw tooth should not be hooked like a rip saw but instead 0° relative to the center of the arbor, this makes the point very durable.
My Dad was good and could sharpen & set a saw that was burning. His own saw he always gave the teeth a swipe of two with a file once a week if we were useing it every day for a couple weeks. Doesn't take a rocket sicentiest to sharpen one unless it is carbide tiped. Then you almost have tyo hire some one to sharpen it. Al
More great info thanks guys.I would have thought the Carbide tip would win hands down but I do understand the self sharpening verse sending it out kinda thing.
That one came from D&H welding in PA. Also sold as the Vermont woodsman saw from New Haven equipment. The 3 point is really convenient, no staking it down or piddling around with a flat belt.
