You know Eric all it takes is practice. I tune all my saws by ear. The tach is just for making some comparisons of before and after, but if I am up in the mountains at 7500 feet cutting dead pine for firewood the saws get tuned by ear.
I believe there are some videos around demonstrating the 4 stroking sound to the clean 2 stroking sound you get from out of the wood and then in the wood. I learned by watching those videos and then tweaking the hi jet on my saws so I could duplicate that sound. Then after time my ear became accustomed to what I am listening for. There is no mystery to it. When saws have become muffler modded the sound becomes more easily heard I guess because they are louder.
Seen some of those vids..... Seems almost cut and dry. BUT! My over-thinking brain has prevented me from seeing it any way other than this explanation- 3 screws. Each one has its purpose, but they all individually affect the other two at any given position. And for the life of me, that logic makes my stomach turn, my head gets to feeling like a cinderblock, and I'm suddenly transported to my first attempt at Calculus (years ago). Is there a way to "see" past this, and NOT end up scorching the piston if I were to go the wrong (lean) way? Already (just sitting here typing this) I feel like I'm a kid again, looking over the edge of the roof atop the RCA building on a school field trip. I'll be the first to admit it- I am inadequate with 2 stroke engines and I need chainsaw tuning help.
The low screw you adjust for mixture when the saw is at idle. The high screw you adjust for mixture when at wide open throttle. The third screw is there to adjust what the rpm's will be when at idle. It is that simple. Sure the low mixture can affect the tuning at wide open throttle but that is why you adjust the low first. You will not score a piston from being to lean at an idle it is at wide open throttle that really counts. If you can hear the engine 4 stroke and then go to a clean 2 stroking sound when you put it in wood under load then you know it is not to lean. As soon as you release the throttle the high or wide open throttle jets are not even being used. With the butterfly closed there is not enough air passing over the jets to draw any fuel out at that point. That is why I always start my 2 stroke engines with wide open throttle. It is because the air is passing over all the jets, low and high to draw the maximum amount of fuel out. Some saws automatically set the throttle to high speed when you pull the choke so you do not have to do it. A lot of older saws did not have that feature.
Thanks for the quick tutorial Mag Craft I learn best when someone SHOWS me, so maybe at Backwoods Savage's GTG there'll be some tuning/re--tuning going on. We shall see. It's tough to admit my vulnerabilities on certain subjects. But I have been, here. Sorry for the drawn out
Hey Eric none of us were born with 2 cycle engines on our brain. We all had to learn it just like you will.
You can easily take a few thou off a cylinder base via sanding. The lathe work that's done on a lot of port jobs these days is necessary because the lathe is also used to machine the combustion chamber area (shrinking the combustion chamber and boosting compression) and a corresponding amount must also be removed from the cylinder base to maintain the piston to head clearance (squish). A little more is usually removed to set the squish to the desired clearance. All in all, this can involve removing tens of thousandths of material which would require insane amounts of time via sanding and the chance of altering the plane of the base is quite high.