Nice. Does your 650 use the same case as the 660? I remember your post about it from back then (also your fuel line posts). The 064 case is different from other 1122s. All intake parts needed to be changed as well. No 064 parts except the crank and case, oiler, fw, and recoil. This is no longer a problem since many sellers on ebay are lumping everything together for about $60 shipped.
Every thing on the 650 is the same as the 660 except the piston and cylinder. They have the same IPL.
If I had bought it new I would of paid the little bit more! Your already paying a wheel barrow load of cash! Me I bought it in a box crushed at a saw shop for $30 Edit: not a new saw or new box that was crushed. It was a tree service saw that obviously was dropped or a tree fell on it etc. I had a better than average suspicion that the P and C was good, and I knew the bar and chain were serviceable.
A quick update, nothing major. I had seen repeated mention of the winter/summer shutter not being included in the kit saws and people being given sh!t when they asked for one so I ordered one on line right up front. Now for the fun part, my kit saw from Arbortec.com included that shutter. Does anyone still need one?
What do they cost to buy? I didn't get one but I'm also not convinced that it is important enough to worry about...IDK...none of my other saws have it and they run fine in the winter and summer as long as I retune the carb for the 50-80* temp difference.
I think it cost me about $7 or so including postage. Not all that much, but I felt like it was worth having the shutter. I was mostly concerned about mixing engine cooling air with the carburetor intake when the added heat was not needed.
90% of the time I forget to move the ones on my stihl saws. I do live here in the south and when I cut in winter the coldest it's in the 30s and usually in the 40s to 60s. I often cut in the summer when it's 80 to 95f
The only time you need to move that shutter is when you experience carburetor icing. And that's only going to happen at temps hovering around the freezing mark. It can be -20 out and you don't need to move the shutter. Keeping it closed as much as possible will keep the filter clean too.
OK, so I was looking at this backwards...its not that you don't need a shutter...its more likely to never need to remove it. Maybe I should rustle one up...I'll contact HLS to see if they can get me the one that I was supposed to have gotten in the kit to begin with.
Here is another question for the "experts". I have measured my gasketless squish at about 25.5 thousandths. Is it safe to do a gasket delete assembly or should I go ahead and use the base gasket? Note: I am going to use my saw as a milling saw so it will see extreme service conditions.
Should be fine I believe...that's right where mine was (is) I think I remember reading that anything over 0.018" is OK on the 660
Progress report. Piston and cylinder installed with base gasket, flywheel installed and oil pump attempted. The rubber plug that goes into the oil pump was a loose part in my rubber goods bag but I could not get it into the end of the pump even by using extreme force. I stopped work on that side of the saw and have ordered a new oil pump locally. I hope to see that in a couple of days. Meanwhile I started to look over the gas tank/handle in hopes of installing it. At first I could not see where to connect the black wire in the handle end so I went looking for pictures. I found a nice one in this thread about page 6 where 94BULLITT had posted a few pictures of progress. It showed the black wire connection in nice detail but unfortunately it also showed the switch shaft down under the switch spring which was the opposite of what I had. I figured out how to pull apart the handle so that I could remove the switch shaft and re-install it the way it should be. That was an unexpected adventure that only cost me about 15 minutes once I figured out what I needed to do. Next up, while waiting on the new oil pump, is the last of the vibration buffers and then install the handle. With that in place I will be able to install the ignition coil just once.
I do remember that I used an OEM on/off switch shaft instead of the china one. It had a lot of flex when turning saw to on or choke and it did not seem rigid enough so I used the OEM.
Boy, I'm at a loss here...I don't remember having to install anything in the oil pump...it was complete IIRC. The only rubber involved was the square O-ring that goes between the pump and the case. Mine worked hard and had a lot of flex until I put a very light layer of grease between the spring and the lever where it slides...made a huge difference.
I do have the whole farmertec handle assembly and plastic but an OEM crankcase and everything else. Just so yall don't start asking me random questions about assembly. Ha. I have torn saws down but never split crank cases.
I like that idea. I have some dielectric grease that would be perfect for that use. I also do not like the feel of that switch lever as it is. I think the pump they sent me was defective since it looks like the back end of the pump has been peened over where that diagonally cut rubber plug should go. I need to get a picture of it the way it is.
