No reason they shouldn't all be close to each other. The amount of metal, production machinery, skilled manpower, etc. is almost the same for a 50cc or a 100cc saw. The only difference, which affects pre-assembled saws is perceived value from the consumer's point of view. If I think "OK I would pay an extra $100 for that added 10cc" then sooner or later the retail price will be $100 more. Really, how much does it cost to make a 50cc piston vs a 100cc piston? How much longer to install the wrist pin, bearing and circlips? The price difference is not driven by costs and, it is my guess, a small displacement means more labor because the working space to do things is tighter so the skill level and/or the time goes up.
I have always thought the same thing. Is a MS661 wort $700 more than a 241? I don't see how it would cost much more to manufacture. I have noticed Stihl seems to price certain parts the same for any saw. Fuel lines are mostly around $10, pistons are around $40, and piston and cylinder kits are around $250. It is funny how the bigger saws are more money but the parts for a small cost about the same as big one. If China can make these saws for $125-180 and $3XX for the 070 assembled (the price would be better in bulk) and make money at that, what do you think Stihl has in one? Stihl made for more of these saw than China so I bet their cost was really low.
I hit the post button too soon.....Another thing that is similar is small engines. Look how much more a 12hp engine is than a 10. In some cases the engine has a bigger bore or longer stroke, and maybe a different cam. It did not cost them anymore to make 12hp engine. Tractors are the same way. Sometimes they will want $1000-1500 more for just a couple hp produced by a larger engine and nothing else is different on the rest of the tractor.
I'm with you. It's more poking at stihls pricing. But they sell less 90cc saws so they charge more to make up for it in a higher profit per item to cover the costs of another production line and inventory.
Larger engine?! More like a parameter change in the ECU or if you're old school, $5000 per 1/8 of a turn on the injection pump. (Deere 4x20 compacts were a perfect example. 4120, 4320, 4520, 4720 all had different price points and there wasn't a single physical difference between any of them!)
The Kubota L5240 is rated at a lower speed than the L5740. The new Kubota M7s all have the same engine, I think it was used in the M135. One engine spans 135hp to 170hp. You can squeeze a good bit more power from a turbo diesel tractor.
That's right ted. I was thinking Ed but was like that's not right? Of course if I clicked the video he would of said it in the first 10 seconds of it I bet like he always does.
Well my kit is on the way. I was starting to wonder when it would be sent then I got an E-mail from UPS this morning that they would be delivering it tomorrow. About a half hour later I got an e-mail from Arbortec.com saying they had shipped it. Not the kind of communications I am used to but at least a box of parts is on its way. Today I ordered a gasket kit, decompression valve and intake manifold from HLSupply as those seem to be vulnerable pieces on these builds. The total cost for those was about $35 with shipping. I guess shipping depends on where you are located. All in all I am not disappointed. The charge date at Paypal shows 7/11 and UPS has said it will be at my door on 7/19. 8 days overall from half way around the world is not bad. Now I need to hunt up some three bond 1184 (Yamabond4 or Hondabond will suit me fine) and a T27 that can reach through the cylinder all the way to the head bolts. That way when the package from HLSupply arrives, I will be ready to piece together the cases.
Today I went out to supper and after ordering from Arbortec.com I found this on my front porch when I got home. When I opened it there was about what I expected inside based on other people's comments from their own builds. I did not find any Three Bond 1184 locally but I went to a multi-brand bike dealer and picked up some nice Yamabond 4 which is supposed to be the same thing but relabeled for use with Yamaha engine cases. Now all I need is that gasket package from HLSupply.
I used only the gaskets/seals that it came with...saw no issues with anything. I did delete the cylinder base gasket...that was the only place sealer was used.
When I check the inside of the cylinder by running a fingertip across the openings I don't find anything that would be a potential snag point for a ring. I had expected some deburring would be required but I am not going to do it because I found no burs. All of the ports enter the bore smoothly. The "sometimes" bur at the plug hole thread is not present at all on this one. There is a minor casting defect on one of the cooling fins around a transfer port part of the cylinder. I will try to get a picture of that. At first I thought a sliver of a fin had been broken during shipping but on closer inspection it is a casting defect, not breakage. I will at least get a picture of that up soon.
Do you have another jug around to compare port bevels to? Not a 660, just another oem jug. Not feeling anything is great, but anything raised or especially sharp could be a problem.
All I have unpacked is the cylinder and piston and I almost lost the wrist pin circlips with the cylinder packing materials. I will be unpacking the rest of the pieces when I can actually make progress. I unpacked the cylinder package based on a request for pictures. I do not have another cylinder I can compare right now but this is not my first rodeo, it is just my first chainsaw. I have rebuilt too many 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines in my life and I trust myself when I think I have a clean surface for the rings to ride on. In good light I can even see the honing marks on the cylinder inner surface. They are very shallow compared to my past experiences but they are there. I did promise some cylinder pictures so here goes: What I first thought was a broken cooling fin on the right side The left side The exhaust port The intake port, a little off center in that bore and you can see that casting defect from this angle too. The bore showing the exhaust side and the left side inner port openings
I can't remember 100% for sure...but I think the cooling fins on mine was the same way...I'm running it...you have any chrome flaking off in the intake/exhaust ports? (at least that's what I think it was) I did, Dremel fixed it
