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Bottom part of stove door gasket not sealing!

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by FatBoy85, Dec 11, 2017.

  1. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    If you are cutting stove pipe, keep in mind that it might be less than 6” that you need to cut. Measure twice. Cut once.

    The attached pic is the back side of the attached pic is the back side of my pipe damper. It worked for 2.5 seasons then the back side of the rod pulled through the pipe. I compressed the pipe and put a weld bead at the end of the rod so it wouldn’t pull through again. Compressing the pipe ensured I didn’t weld the rod to the pipe. Been a season and a half and it’s holding up. Saved myself $25.. maybe I should have cleaned it up a bit for the pic... but the stove is pretty hot right now...

    911B7BAC-C48B-4153-A1BD-3F82EE1F1FCA.jpeg
     
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  2. Matt Fine

    Matt Fine

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    Yes! The 6” in my post was an approximation. The actual cut needed may be more or less and might vary by brand. Never cut based on what you read on the internet, especially if written by me!
     
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  3. FatBoy85

    FatBoy85

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    Thank you lads, I realized that the gasket fix really did help fix it. Although I do notice that when the stove goes cold and gets a break, it does this better than a reload hot. Not sure why but maybe to do with something of it cooling down and such components seal better from that start? Anyways if this is really necessary, I’ll look into the pipe a bit more. Thanks for the instructions!
     
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