It is as efficient as I can get it for the amount of lumber I'm sawing. Biggest thing I wish I had for production is a twin blade edger. For the size logs I get here. Mostly all I need to be able to do is take the bark wane off and end up with a nice 4 sided board. But 5 or 6 grand is above my budget. This is the lumber I had on the ATV trailer. About 1/3rd of what I need for the Arctic Entry ( enclosed, insulated porch) .
When you mill are you trying to get board sizes the same as standard lumber 1x6, 1x12, 2x4 etc or whatever the log allows?
I try to maximize what I can get out of the log depending on length. And of course diameter. When I'm working a tree up. My default bucks are 16'6" . But if there is a fairly significant grade break I will buck for the pieces of lumber that I need at that length. My target thickness is 1" or 7/8", for my friend I saw 2 bys at 1 5/8" thick x 5 5/8" for 2x6. For myself I mostly saw 1 3/4" thick for 2 by stock . For 2x4s I mill 1.75x 4" . 2x6 are 1.75x 5 5/8" . 2x8 are still 1.75 but I rough saw to 8" . X 10s I go 10" It seems to be that it's easier to get 2 real nice 1 5/8 x 5 5/8 out of alot of the logs I get . Than 2, 1.5x6 I will slice 1 by boards off and not feel too bad about a bit of bark wane. I very much dislike framing with bark waney 2 by lumber. Pretty much Hate that. The lumber I sawed to frame the house I had a bit of bark wane in some of my lumber and it caused me grief. I have 1 dip in a butt joint of subfloor from a 2x8 I milled that had 50% wane in 1 part of the plank. I was going to scab a piece on the side of it . But when I joisted this floor I was kindof a 1 armed framer. So in short I get all the Good deminsional lumber out of a log I can , For what I'm going to be building with that lumber. I sawed 2, 4x10 beams for the entry . 1 is 4 5/8x 10. The other is 4 13/16 x 10. That is what it came out to be after I had adjusted the blade level .
