Barn going up.

Thanks brother


Just a bit of work here and there, no marathon sessions or anything.

Been trying to split/stack for a while each night after work. Just trying to keep the process enjoyable.

It helps tremendously having the splitter right by the rack. Stacking has always been the "tedious" part for me.

 

I was wondering the same...but it all makes sense now.
I wonder if it would be good to leave a few larger, just here n there, for "overnighters" as needed? Or maybe the stove is large enough that its not needed at all?

 

I do have some larger splits, but if I load the stove up at night, get the cat engaged, then drop the air, never had a problem with not having heat and a good coal bed in the morning.

Plus, a few small splits is preferable when it's not that cold outside.. shoulder season splits.

 

We have never packed the stove to full capacity. Even in the coldest temps. It can get pretty warm in here pretty easily.

 

I was wondering the same thing. But it might be related to only having one year of dry time for it?

 

Mainly to make it easier for me to load the stove. I am not as young as I used to be. Lol B UT it does dry faster also.

 

Chaz Chazsbetterhalf

I'm having a new 36'x56'x12' put up in the next couple weeks. Any woulda/coulda/shoulda advice?

 

Always make it as big as possible.As much room under cover as possible. Leave areas to always add lean too sides on. ! Say like I have ever built a pol barn. Built a small shed and they always need to be as big as possible.

I'd for sure if you can afford it get concrete floor and for sure put electricity to it.

 

Concrete is going to come later but it will have power. I made it 50% bigger than what I "need".

 

Chaz is putting in a sink with running water. Place to wash your hands after processing your deer. Didn't get to use it this year.

 

No such thing as "larger than I need"

I wish that I had taken drainage into account before the build. I have a mediocre ditch I made, but it's not as deep as I'd like, and nearly impossible to work on it now.


12' ceiling should be good.. I opted for 10 ft. ceiling, but had I known they would use 16' 4x6 beams, I'd have gone 12'.

I also opted for a wrap to prevent condensation from the steel, we used the bubble wrap stuff that goes under steel roofing.

When you opt for concrete, it would be advisable to have them cut stress relief.. I have some cracking already, not bad, but it certainly isn't gonna get any better.

Looking forward to your build.

 

Double that and you might be close.
Can never be big enough.

 

This is really good advice. While I don't have enclosed barns or 100% enclosed sheds I have the one of the double steel carports for a wood shed and I have an older 80s carport with corogated metal roof and I have a larger metal open on the sides steel boat shed that's like 14x36 or something under the main part and has a lean too side on it for a truck which is essentially half of one of those metal carports on the side I park a truck under. Under the right conditions it's almost like it rains under there. Everything gets wet like it was out in light drizzle. The underside of the 30 year old or so steel roofing which is white has a chalkyness to it now. Like if you run your hand on it it will leave some on your hand. But that moisture that "rains" down on the underside in the mornings carries that residue and was leaving a white residue that wasn't really even washing off the truck. I had to get creative with cleaners and buffing type cleaner wax to get it off. My solution was to screw a tarp up on the underside of the support metal. It catches the rain and since it's on a slope the water runs down and out the low side of the tarp. It keeps the "shed rain" from hitting the truck. Everything else just gets wet.

 

Got myself in a fine mess trying to work on the ditch last June..



Took me a few minutes to figure out the best course of action. Before I put down the left outrigger, the ROPS was touching that beam.

A bit of a pucker moment to be sure.