Blows my mind to see the paste on those metal transmission pan magnets or the one I just pulled out of the rear end of my toyota. Nothing big, not even flakes but things wear and leave behind metal.
It is crazy to think that oil comes from below the ground and is ok there... But spill it on top of the ground... And all hell breaks loose lol I use to work in the wastewater industry..... And my old co- worker use to say..."the solution to pollution is dillution !" Its true... But only to a point. It seems polluters always have a mostly stupid excuse to be a polluter !
I been using the TSC lately. I've used Husqvarna and Stihl as well. At what temp do you switch to winter blend bar oil? The reason I ask is because a friend and I were cutting one day and his bar was literally smoking while he cut. I figured his chain was dull but it really wasn't. We checked to make sure the saw was oiling which it was. He checked his oil level which was half full so he decided to top off. He grabbed a gallon of oil out of his truck and I noticed it was the Stihl winter blend in the blue jug. I said whoa, try using some of my bar oil (regular Husqvarna) and the smoking stopped. Temp's that day were around 40 degree's or so. Ever since then I figured unless the temp is really cold, like below 32 degrees then you shouldn't use the winter oil. Am I correct. Regarding waste engine oil as bar oil. In addition to fine metal particulates in the oil it is also worth noting that used oil is acidic.
I use regular oil all the time cause I am in the south. That said I have cut wood a few times below 32 with regular oil and it was fine. Thinner oil should not cause a bar to smoke especially at 40F. Maybe if it was like 120f but not at that temp.
Lead is no longer used in engine parts,bearings,etc. Leaded gas no longer exists . Lead wheel weights are now banned in many states. Iron, copper, manganese, and zinc are all vitamin supplements and we are exposed to them every single day in building materials, home products and furnishings and yes gas burnt in our vehicles. 150 gallons of gas burnt per average oil change. Oil filters for the most part are 5-10 micron. The bug that causes the flue virus is said to be around 5 micron. I'm a little more concerned about the wind blowing a lead particle around from a painted window sill than I am from a liquid that comes out of the ground and naturally bonds itself to soil particles. I'll be more concerned about used motor oil when the EPA mandates oil collection booms in every water retention pond at every parking lot in the whole country. It isn't the evil it once was. If it was oil changes would be mandatory at a certified waste collection facility.
Around here I buy oil in bulk, by bringing in jugs. The Essence brand is by far the best I have ever used and it's $7/gallon. Comes in Summer or Winter formulation. The Summer drips like snot. Essence is used by a lot of the loggers around here. Poulon green jug is very tacky, Husky Winter and Summer is thin. On my 288 XP Lite project saw, the former owner ran used motor oil in it. All I can say is what a mess.
I repeat, used motor oil is NASTY! And it has nothing to make it tacky. The 288 had 2 bars that came with it. One was a 36" Husky bar that appeared to have been used once. Something dripped down the bar after being used that took some of the paint off. I am attributing this to the used bar oil. So to sum up used motor oil: NASTY Not tacky Takes paint off What's more to like. I'll post a pic of the bar in question, hopefully you can see the paint that came off.
Sorry man... Ur wrong !! Seriously no offense Id rather spend a few dollars on the new oil to a avoid the nastiness that comes with used oil !
You know what... Im gonna edit my first statement ! Your arguments are wrong for me but right for you.... So i guess who cares!!!!! We can all do what we want in life
http://forestry.oxfordjournals.org/content/79/5/563.full "The key determinants of wood ash chemistry are the tree species combusted, the nature of the burn process and the conditions at the application site. Wood ash from hardwood species produces higher levels of macronutrients in their ash than conifers, and the silica content is frequently lower. A furnace temperature between 500 and 900°C is critical to the retention of nutrients, particularly potassium, and determines the concentrations of potentially toxic metals including aluminium in the ash. Fly ash, the lightest component that accumulates in the flue system, can contain high concentrations of cadmium, copper, chromium, lead and arsenic and this ash should not be used as fertilizer. The form of the ash at application is important, with loose ash releasing Ca, K and Na more rapidly than granulated ash."
Used oil is still a carcinogen , at least in the state of california. I guess the rest of us in all 49 or 46 states (depending upon who you are) are fine then
No offense taken. The hocus-pocus applied to this issue is pretty clear to me. I know what I know from 30 years of experience in a commercial logging setting. That said I have a biodiesel setup that settles and filters down to 1/2 micron and we use an 80/15/5 mix of WVO,WHO,and WMO in various applications. If a flu bug is 5 micron ,, I suspect any metals would easily be filtered out at 1/2 micron. If OEM gas/diesel filters are all 5-10 micron is it safe to assume final refinery filters are all 5 micron thus eliminating all heavy metals already found in crude or finished product that gets burned in engines ,,,, spewed into the air,,,,, and inhaled into all of our lungs. I don't live in a glass bubble ,,,, does anyone ? http://smallfarms.oregonstate.edu/sfn/su10toxicmetals "Not all heavy metals are toxic to humans. In small quantities, metals such as iron, copper, manganese, and zinc are essential for good health. Heavy metals such as lead are also good industrial ingredients e.g. used in car batteries. However, these heavy metals become toxic when they do not get metabolized by the body and end up accumulating in the soft tissues. Ingestion is the most common route of exposure to heavy metals. In plants, uptake of heavy metals depends on the plant species and bio-availability of the metal in the soils. Since most of the ingestion of heavy metals occurs from consumption of plants, then addressing how plants acquire heavy metals can aid in controlling heavy metal toxicity. If you happen to ingest heavy metals, that alone is not enough to cause toxicity. In laboratory animals, absorption of toxic metals may occur as a result of chronic deficiencies of calcium and magnesium in the body and in other cases, excess levels of aluminum mobilizes calcium and heavy metals to move from bones to the central neural tissue. Of the many heavy metals of concern, lead and arsenic have been found to be higher than federally set levels in most soils studied - i.e. soils clost to or near former smelters and tailings from metal ore mines and those close to fuel-fired electrical plants. Note that all heavy metals exist naturally in the soils largely in complex forms with other minerals – see Table 1, showing average abundance of total heavy metals in the earth’s crust and in typical soils."
Which, according to bar size, is why I've never experienced any problems with using drain oil for bar lube? Woodchuck (op) asked "what bar oil are you using". I guess I should have answered "this is what I'm using for bar oil", since it is not technically bar oil then? End result is you can use motor oil (used) for bar oil with good results. Like I've said, been doing it for years and don't plan on changing. However, i did buy a 4-stroke boat engine instead of the traditional 2-stroke engine! Remember, the one that dumps exhaust/oil/unspent fuel right into the water? Does that give me a pass for the used oil thingy??
I like my old marine two strokes. The real old ones 25+ year old ones. They love their fuel but are bullet proof reliable. The new ones use WAY less fuel like the new Etecs. For those that work on their own saws the used motor oil is just nasty to work in. But like you said it will work...maybe maybe not. Mike is not the only one who attributes a failed pump to used oil, that often is drained into the not so cleanest containers. You may use spotless drain pans but I know mine are filled with contaminets that include dirt, pollen, metal, brake dust, water and all kinds of krud that I catch. For me using the used oil to save $20/ year, on saws that cost anywhere from $200-500 used ($900 or so new) is not worth it to me.
I own three vehicles and 2 of the 3 have V8 engines. I would never come close to generating enough drain oil to keep the saws fed anyway.
