Bar and Chain Oil

I have no experience using canola oil for b&c oil on my chainsaws. Then again, i have no experience using canola oil for motor oil in my cars or tractor or for using it as hydraulic oil in my tractor ot log splitter. Knock yourself out.

 

First sentence answers the question nicely.

 

I have had several customers ruin bars trying vegetable oil to save the enviorment from all that bar oil hitting the ground ??? . That is what they told me then they asked about the bio bar oil and they have been buying that {stupid expensive} it is vegetable based you mix with water The older low rpm saws you could use old motor oil or just regular 30wt but the new high rpm saws really need the tacky oil to preserve the bars and the sproket tips everyone has their opinion but for the cost of regular bar oil is it worth not using it??

 

Ah, yes milling Is a whole 'nother animal...

 

Yes and no. Same principle. At wot, chainspeed is going to fling non-tackified oil off no matter if your cut is 10 minutes or one minute. Milling just better exploits the shortcomings of using an oil with no additive to keep it stuck to the chain. At least that’s my logical .02.

 

As far as used engine oil goes...if it is a good lubricant...why wouldn't you just leave it in the engine instead of changing it out with new?

 

I could not bite my tongue any longer............
I use the oil drained from the Cummins.
Flame away.

 

The way I see it, it's your saw and you can do whatever you want to it.

#'Murica

 

I just bought 6 gallons of this today at menards, on sale for $3.99 a gallon

 

It's a little bit thick for cutting in freezing temperatures. If that's your plan, I'd get a little bit of diesel fuel to thin it out. But that being said, it's the tackiest bar oil I've ever used even when it's 90° out

 

Wonder if any logging companies save all their old motor oils for use in saws?

 

If its so cold that the bar oil is too thick I thin with used motor oil- That I let drip through a coffee filter prior. If that ain'tt thin enough - I do not need to be out there.

 

For summer I use whatever local has cheaper. For winter I use Stihl Arctic. I only use bar and chain oil, and have not lost bar or chain.

 

engine oil in general is changed WAY to often, if you were to have the oil lab tested it more than likely show fine. Too many people grew up with the 3000 mile rule, oils now are far superior.
Everyone says it cheap change it, very big waste of resources and money. Oil does not go bad or lose lubricity it becomes contaminated with other wear metals from inside the engine, which also have been greatly reduced due to better materials and manufacturing processes.
I know of many guys with diesels whose oil tests fine after 25,000 miles.

Conclusion if it is good enough for my $13,000 Cummins it will be fine on a $100 bar and chain for the millisecond it is there

 

My 288XP was purchased used. The previous owner used used motor oil in it, what a fricking mess. The saw was torn down and full rebuilt done along with some minor port work. Runs great now but then it ran OK when I got it too.

 

Well.....here you go... I'm going to step out and say I have thinned my oil in the cold weather with a shot of the mixed gas for probably 30+ years. I have bought Echo bar oil for probably 10-15 years now. I've never had any issues.

 

Same. Whatever works

 

Some dude on youtube ran bar & chain oil in a mower or something for a few hours just for grins. It lost the tackiness but didn't blow up...

 

I worked logging for 10 years we bought bar oil in drums all our used oil went in the waste oil heater in the shop thats the only company I am familiar with in answer to your question, Just Wood JB