Wasn't sure if that was considered a true 1 7/16" or not...since that would technically be 1.4375...guess I wasn't thinking at the time about most mics really only reading to thousandths...plus it might be a half small so to not be a press fit. Anyways, hope everything drops right in for ya Horkn !
Ok. Long story short, the magnum 18 has a 1" shaft. The kt17 in the ariens is 1-1/8". Length looks too be the same, although the clutch is being stubborn on the ariens and we have it soaking overnight with penetrating oil. So, how would you guys deal with this? I haven't looked on McMaster Carr yet, but maybe they have a shaft adapter? Outside of the shaft size, it looks like it should all be a simple swap. I'll post up pictures later...
What would y'all do to free a stuck clutch on the output shaft? I don't want to pry to much. Those are expensive.
Well the overnight soak in penetrating oil is a good start...a little carefully placed heat might help. I've had luck with heating then hitting it with the oil...while it cools it kinda sucks the oil in...and if you can get the crank vertical, gravity can help get the lube in there too. Can you get any kind of puller on it? If its on the junk engine then you could cut the crank off and press it out, if push comes to shove...
Magnum 18 in the craftsman Kt17 in the ariens Craftsman M18. There's a single pulley on the craftsman so I can't use this clutch in the ariens. Ariens Airens . The clutch is being stubborn. The m18 in the craftsman Above..the m18 is pretty clean. Below, the ariens, and the stubborn clutch.
Yes, the stuck clutch is on the bad engine. Now the crank would need cleaning up, but it's not junk, so the cutting would be a last ditch effort. I've got a can of that deep freeze stuff. Maybe use that on the crank stub?
It doesn't take a ton of heat to help things along...when installing bearings getting the bearing to ~150* above the shaft temp will allow the bearing to drop right on in a "press fit" situation. (with a max bearing temp of ~250*) So I would think less heat differential than that would work for you...if you have a non contact thermometer, those work pretty good for keeping track of temps during jobs like this.
I just noticed I was right the first time in that the engine has the drive shaft stub out the front, on both the craftsman and the ariens.
So I'm about to order the shaft adapter. I can go with the zinc steel one, or the stainless steel one. I want to go with the SS one, just a little worried about dissimilar metals "welding" together. I'll use a load of anti seize at any rate. So, would you guys get the SS one? It's like $4 more
I use a ton of stainless at work...never seize it and you are golden...but you could be fine with never seize on steel too. Just don't slobber it on too thick and end up with it in the clutch or on the belt...this is one of those less is more situations...
Did you get the clutch off ? I believe that the kt has sleeve bearing mains so it should have some end play. If so put the bolt almost all the way in, use something to gently pry the clutch away from the engine and give the bolt a smack or 2. The shock will usually break the bond.
Not yet, haven't been back to the scene of the crime since Saturday to try. We'll try this week. Probably after the sleeve arrives. We'll try both methods you and brenn said . My buddy lives in the city where I work, and that's where the tractors are.
I would still heat it up no matter what. If your buddy can occasionally warm it up and just leave it cool off that will help also by drawing in the penetrating oil.
Yes, he can. I'll expect to help him swap his mower deck onto his JD and take off the snowblower on Sunday, if not before. I ordered the stainless shaft adapter, it should be here by Friday.
