Definitely not! If you use a progressive raker/depth gauge, it makes no difference if all the cutters on one side of the chain are at the witness mark and the other side is @ new length, the chain will still cut straight. FF to 16:00: This one really explains the science behind it.
I have a dremel style that hooks to the truck battery, I think it's Oregon brand. Doesnt mount to the bar, but does have a little angle guide attached. It doesn't get it to bench grinder status (at least in my hands), but it's a ton better than what I can do with a hand file and a whole lot faster. A couple zips per tooth and I'm cutting again..... I'm sure some people would fine it inadequate, but I like it.
Here is a post from years ago: Here are pics of the Granberg's , I like them because you can set the angle and every tooth is filed the same. I have had the hand file since 1978 it still works well. I touch up my saw after every tank of gas without the guides then do a good sharpening at the end of the day with the file guide. The electric one is 12 volt.
He files, so I’m guessing he’ll say no. But there are a few of us on here with a square grinder who will do it for you if he won’t
Friend of mine has a friend who he has cut wood for him. Kind of a down on his luck type of guy who cant be told anything. Anyhow ive watched him cut and he gets the saw so dull and will lean on it with all his might kicking out powder and smoke. I just cringe and shake my head. Ive told my friend who has told him and his attitude is "just one more cut". I volunteered to sharpen his chains...big mistake. All super dull and takes me sometimes a half hour to do just one with just a file in the vise. He'll just buy a new chain. Either he doesnt get it, is too lazy or his ego gets in the way
Yawner here's a good sharpening story which could be the case here. Im using my big saw wearing a 28" bar. I had little experience with it at the time. I was bucking a huge white oak log resting on the ground not being mind full of the bars end and hit dirt. Dulled it. I stop go back to my PU and sharpen it while on the bar. Gave maybe each tooth a dozen strokes (long time with a 28" chain) and go back to cutting. It was better but not like before. I stopped again and resharpened with a dozen strokes again. Saw cut much better. Generally i will eyeball them and give a couple strokes with the flat file. Do the rakers first in case you nick a cutter.
Watched the top vid, thanks for posting... really enjoyed that and learned. Have always heard that teeth should be the same and count strokes, although haven't bothered with that much in recent years especially with the dremel style.
I would like to add to tgat good advice, Fully wrapped left hand and left elbow locked at all times (as often as possible)
Wood wolverine knows what he is talking about here. He converted me. Your chain has been rocked for sure and you didnt file back far enough. Safety chain will cut if its sharp. I rocked one the other day and it took 45 min of filing to get it right (i actually enjoy filing, so not a big deal for me).
Just looked at the site...10 or more 20 " chains $7.00 each. That's the price I've been paying around here, and thats just for the grinder work, I don't think anyone around here touches the rakers. Don't know what shipping would run me, but sounds like a good deal to me...especially to bring them all back to a quality "re-new"...
