I have had that happen once. I still buy it but if the price of Husky or RedArmor fuel isn't outrageous, I'll opt for them.
I never knew chainsaws came with them until I looked at the parts breakdown. I will leave the USDA spark screen intact however. None of my other saws have one but then they are older saws and all have had the muff mod anyway. The Trufuel I bought has no stink at all and the Stihl pre mix don't either.
Someone on OPE ran into a cat in their muffler a couple months ago. Before that, I never knew it was a thing either. They said it was a bit of a bear to get out, if I'm remembering correctly.
This maybe a stupid question but I’m famous for those. How do you know if your saw muffler has a cat in it or not? What does it look like? Is it part of the internal muffler or a separate piece? Thanks.
It sounds like that's the way to do it if possible. I was thinking he ruined a couple drill bits trying to drill it out. That's all if I remember right. I've never seen one in person. So I'm not familiar, other than a few pictures online.
I've removed 3-4. One crumbled like it wasn't metal. The others were a complete pain. The last 2-3 pieces of ope I felt the need to remove the cat, I just bypassed with strategic drilling. I mod everything lol.
I almost went the route of just drilling enough holes in the metal baffle to compensate for the cat. It looked flimsy but was very durable and put up a good fight. The tech at the dealer said don't over do it because the carb may run out adjustment room if opened too much. Whether that's true or not I don't know.
I haven't ran into that on an otherwise stock engine as of yet. I've put a 3/4" id "stinger" on my 25cc echo leaf blower after bypassing the cat. That said I could see it happening with the right carb / engine combination though.
Catalyst mufflers have been a thing for nearly 20 years now on handheld OPE. They are similar to automotive catalytic converters in function and construction. Yes, they are ceramic and will tear up a regular twist drill instantly. Prob better off with a masonry bit in a hammer drill or the old-fashioned punch/prybar/screwdriver and a hammer. I highly advise precautions against breathing any dust. RE:TruFuel - good stuff, even if it goes stale, it does not kill a carburetor/fuel system. Drain, refill, go. I use it in my newer M-tronic saws, they re-tune themselves to it (from pump gas) perfectly and I don't have to worry about them sitting too long with pump gas in them. More of a concern for me since the saws are used infrequently now. Very expensive if you run through more than a few gallons a year though. If you reliably burn through a 1+ gallon can of mix in a month - prob better off to mix your own with pump gas.
Have not used Trufuel brand. I adopted canned gas pretty early. Been using it since 2015. I do not use it exclusively. Prefer Red Armor, but have run gallons of the Husky stuff. My weedeater drinks too much gas to fill it with the high dollar stuff. Will use regular pump and mix if I know I'm going to run through a lot of fuel. Current price I'm paying for Red Armor cans is $7.50 as of 3 weeks ago. To get that price, I have to find myself at a saw shop that's half hour away. Great shop though. Glad I found them.
I used a gallon Trufuel a few months back, in a stock 362 CM no issues. Burned through the gallon in a few hours after going through 2.5 gallons of none-pump gas with Saber. I couldn’t tell any difference between them. Price is my issue with canned fuel. TruFuel is the cheapest at $24.99 a gallon. A quart of Ams oil Saber is $14.99 @ non-e fuel is $3.89. I make my mix by the 5 gallon can I burn though that every 6-8 weeks.
The red true fuel 50:1 stuff smells just like echo red armor to me. Which is like a combo of melted crayons and coconut. I hate coconut.
Melted crayon!!!!! Ever hear the story of the idiot who sent a red lumber crayon through the clothes dryer? Not a good day......