Any reason to muffler mod a 372xp xtorq?

Here is a 362c with a “shotgun” exhaust- stock piston/cylinder ... NO PORTING ... just a VERY sharp “Razer” RS chain squarefiled

 

Many of my muffs have been this same type. The 394 for instance is one very large chamber, but I added a 2nd port. That along with a base gasket delete gained quite a bit on that saw. Well worth the effort.


The builder on my 357 added a gill on the back half of that muff, the chamber before the baffle.

 

So that strato charge of air could have fuel in it and end up in the muffler?

 

No. On your saw there is a divider in the filter horn, through the carb & intake boot.

 

Very interesting I just watched another video after that one from a guy comparing the XTorq vs non and he sort of showed and explained the P/C and now got me thinking to add a little more oil to my mix.

 

40:1?

 

That’s what I’m thinking on going to. Probably not a bad idea? With some 10w30 of course

 

Lotta personal preference and opinion on the way...
I've been using 40 ever since I've become more educated on saws. I've tore down to check and found plenty but not excessive amounts of oil in the bottom end. The (rather small) extra amount from 50:1, gives the bearings a bit more lube. Plus I'm turning my modified saws a bit higher rpm's than stock, so there's more stress there.

 

First off thanks for all the input so far! I’m always up to listen to everyone’s opinion so as to formulate my own. I’m definitely thinking the bit more oil is a big plus! I’ve ripped down my old 55rancher and it’s fairly dry just a light film in the case. That saw I’ve done some work to and as I read and research I’m thing of pushing it further. As for the 372 I’m going to do just the muffler and try to get it tuned good for now. It will still bark out of the muffler once in a while on warm restart so I think it needs some leaning on the low side. My guess is at idle extra fuel is blowing into the muffler. I’m curious to see if a muff mod will help with this and allow the strato clean air to drive the unburned exhaust out with better flow?

 

Kind of hard to pick out, but turn your sound up and listen to the “bark” right as I pull the cord

 

Strato burns less fuel so you get less oil in the same amount of time into the case.

 

Stihl and Husqvarna have done extensive reasearch and concluded 50:1 is the optimal mix ... hotsaws 101 has told me personally he has cut MILLIONS of board feet with his ported 390xp using this 50:1 mix with K2 oil ... your mileage may vary !

 

Squish-cut ; muffler mod and retune and that saw will come alive my friend !

 

I've replaced way too many cranks in stihl and husky saws less than a year old cutting timber on stihl 50:1 to believe it's good. K2 I can believe. Much better oil than ultra

 

Maybe?

 

Disregard the scribbling I’m thinking to maybe smash down the piece to kind of oval it out sideways to get more clearance for the plastic and the brake handle? Or do I just weld the stock deflector back on and run it? The piece is just sitting there not a dual port by the way.

 

You'll have to make a longer deflector now. Red97 on these forums makes some that work great.

 

I think you'll need to drop the height a good bit to clear. Mount it back up to be sure. Pipes are better off to the pto side.

 

I’ve been told Stihl Professional saws are designed to last 1000+ hours of use ... using that as a baseline a 1000 saw needs to make you $1 per Hr to break even ... consider a good timber-faller can pay for his saw in a day or 2 of work the other 984hrs are all profit ... nothing wrong with making them last as long as possible, you’re not wrong there, however some run the snot out of em for 6 months to a year , sell for 1/2 price and go get another new one ... rinse and repeat ... now that’s someone cutting 8hrs a day ... for most guys doing a few tree-jobs and firewood 1000hrs is a lot of time ... for someone using it 25hrs a year to do the above the saw wil mostly likely last a lifetime ...