I have a cousin that works in a hospital and she brought me some marked specimen cups. I can fill these up ahead of time and take some along if I'm cutting off site. I fill up to 3.0 ounces and add to a gallon of gas, swish out with a gurgle of gas and I should be at a 42.1 ratio or thereabouts. Isn't any different than a ratio rite or any other container to measure, I suppose, but they are really handy.
I refuse to belittle myself with any of the California cans of late. I went on fleabay and purchased a couple of older 1 gallon Blitz 1 gallon cans still in great shape. My other cans have mostly been converted to the Easy Pour nozzles with plastic vents installed. (the vents do seem to get brittle fast but are cheap to buy) If you are filling your tractor with 5 gallon cans, get one of these and fuel will flow almost too quickly! Delivery Destination – EZ-POUR Mix oil is run at 40-50:1. Been using red armor measure bottle thingy lately but just mixed a gallon of Makita synthetic for the trimmers (love the smell). Have some Ktec I'll be trying out soon. Run whatever you like, so long as it's JASO and for air cooled 2-cycle engines. Some will keep your internals cleaner than others. I feel like fresh gasoline is more important than choice of oil. Ratio...anything in between manufacturer's spec and fouling plugs is fine, IMO. 40:1 will see your crank bearing 'wet' with oil upon teardown, 50:1 less so. (personal anecdote)
I like used motor oil. No measuring just a splash in the tank each fill. Use it for bar oil too. No fussing around with different jugs!
Was hoping he was gonna pull the jug. I like to see the bottom end when speaking of mix oil and ratios. Want it looking a little slimy. Is this the oil that some run at 100:1?
Saber is their 100:1 oil. Ive tested around 40 oils at 100-300:1. That's at 8-9 hours each ratio under constant high load. Dominator, Honda hp2, Red Armor and Castrol Go are the only 4 the made it through all the testing without internal engine damage. I also do, what I call a cling test, where I take 40:1 mixes and dye them dark purple with an oil dye, run a tank of the mix through the engines then let set for 6 months. Upon opening I record, with photographs, and share in my oil testing pm. The purple dye makes the oils visually identical which makes seeing the residue difference easy. Dominator leaves nearly as much oil behind as red armor in these rests. Both leave oil clinging to everything. Without the dye, red armor look like it performs much better because its so dark red, where Dominator is almost pink in comparison.
Dominator leaves a small puddle at 40:1. I use 32:1 because it’s easy at 4 ounces per gallon, and because it doesn’t hurt anything. I started seeing some responses elsewhere saying that they didn’t use Dominator because it started to build up carbon and decided I would take the muffler cover off one of my most used saws and see. I’m not looking for oil, I am showing the lack of carbon buildup
Does the hand dyno notice the extra boom from a higher ratio? Yeah, I got you on the video. I've never really had any issues with buildup, so bottom end lubrication is always my curiosity. Of my saws I've had open, they have carbon patina on top of the piston, but clean skirts & rings. Have seen less of it since I stopped using XP mix exclusively.
I’ve never been able to tell a difference in power. Kart racers found out back in the 70s that mid 100 cc engines made the most power at 18:1, so chainsaws being slightly smaller with lighter parts should make the most around 20–24:1.
I have several funnels wrapped in shop rags. Got tired of never finding a clean one when I need it. Got enough of em that most are 'job specific' (fuel, oil, or other).
I use a 100ml graduated cylinder to measure mix oil. I rinse it out with the mixed fuel, dry it with a shop towel, and store in a ziplock bag inside my fuel locker. Same with all my funnels except they get cleaned with carb cleaner before being bagged / stored.
