Advice on smallerish tractor for the woods

Pushing or pulling weight is your friend. Definitely want loaded tires on it. Hills and tractors don't mix well!

Gary

 

+1 Keep that loaded bucket close to the ground. Lower center of gravity = safer.

 

lawns....
where we're going we need no lawns....

 

That is why I am considering an Agricultural tractor this time as well. (If I can sell the 210C I have.) I would be able to get one with R1 tires, a removable backhoe, and a loader with quick attach bucket. Some of the loaders are quick attach as well. Not just the bucket comes off, but the whole loader comes off quick. Nice. Especially if you want to go through the woods with a brush hog behind you and not feel like your driving a train with the loader out the front as well.

 

What you want to lift with the FEL and how long you want to spend digging with the backhoe will figure out your tractor size range and then go from there.

There are always deals to be had with cash in hand and willing to travel.

The B21 would be my upgrade (B2100) but the backhoes on these machines are tiny and not worth the expense over renting on occasion or hiring out.

I have a 42"? bucket and spin a 4' blower or drag a 4' box blade. Very capable machine, certainly not moving pallets of firewood, but makes my life easier.

 

If I was buying a tractor for working in the woods I would want a tractor the at least the size of an L series Kubota. Subcompact or B series is a little small for a woods tractor. Hydro tractors are more user friendly than gear. 3 range hydros are better than two. Look for a tractor that has a removable loader in case you want to take it off. It also makes working on the tractor easier. A quick attach on the loader is a must so you can change out attachments in under a minute. Do you really have much use for a backhoe? You can rent a mini ex that is more productive every year or two for those jobs. Depending on your budget I would not rule out looking at a new tractor.

 

You sure about that

 

Depreciation is also being held in check thanks to tier 4 engines. And all the other new tech that makes it harder for us to work on them.

 

The price for my BX was the same cash or financed. The only difference for cash was there was a $1000 rebate from Kubota. I think the L had a $1500 rebate at the time. I have heard of people financing longer that what is advertised for 0% but a dealer said they just add it to the cost of the tractor. On a Kubota or JD the best way to be sure you are being treated fairly is to build the tractor on their website the way you want it. A good deal is 18% off. A average deal is 10% off.

 

Some larger older tractors (mostly Deere) are appreciating. I think some or worth more now than what they cost new 25 years ago.

It is illegal for a farmer to work on his on new tractor. Farmers Demand Right to Fix Their Own Dang Tractors - Modern Farmer

 

Like this?

Used Construction, Agricultural Equip., Trucks, Trailers & more

Paid 63 for a new one just like it in 02. Mine just doesn't have the 3rd rear scv.

And the software crap is just dumb. There won't be any new ones here for as long as that is in place.

 

Great example!

Compacts are getting up close to $60k now.



Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

I have pulled many over the years. Stumps can be very difficult, I try to take my time and break all the roots all the way around and then work my way in trying to twist the stump out by using leverage of bucket against ground to loosen it up.

Because of this I am hoping to rent a track-hoe/excavator in the 17 ton range for a week to do a lot of stump pulling on the logging trails when I can afford it. But unfortunately I spent too much money on the barn.

 

I've run several smaller machines you realize pretty quick a loader on most of them is nothing more than a glorified loose material bucket. That's why I'd want a hoe especially in the shale and clay down here. I know it's not going to dig stumps like a trackhoe at least have the ability to scratch up some fill when needed and I'm planning for septic repairs

 

I'd suggest a 4wd for any smaller tractor with a loader. With any weight on the front (forks or bucket), especially on a grade, they are helpless in 2wd. Granted mines usually overloaded.

 

I'm a total non-expert, but I was able to pick up a used L3710 this sprintg and absolutely love it. Personally, I wouldn't want to take a B/BX in my woods, too hilly and rocky. The only downside so far is no SSQA on the FEL. I plan to fix that this Spring. I agree totally with MasterMech and Gasifier. Must be 4WD, Hydro, and if new SSQA. SSQA and extra hydro line can be added later an are not terribly expensive if you can find a great used one. BTW, did you take a look at the Kioti' s. We have a great dealer here so I was looking at them, when I found my Kubota that had just been traded in for a bigger Kioti.

 

I don't own a tractor, but I've spent plenty of time on them over the years. You never want to be under-tractored (too small, too light, not enough lift). It will make jobs take twice as long as they should, if you can even do them at all. Woods tractors need to be pretty short to make the tight turns, light enough to not sink down in the loam (check local listings), and have plenty of ground clearance. Anything other than ag tires in the woods and you are cheating yourself traction-wise.

My favorite tractor is my dad's old massey (same as a 9N). It is nimble but has (just) enough guts to haul big logs out of the woods. I'm not saying this is the right tractor, but it is the perfect size and weight. I used to run a Kubota L series on occaision. It was a touch smaller, but with 4wd there wasn't a lot it couldn't do as far as getting stuff done in the woods.

I'd go 30HP, 4WD, ag tires, pick a color you like.