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Advice on new stove install- ideal steel

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Brad38, Mar 9, 2015.

  1. papadave

    papadave

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    Gotcha.
    I'd agree that straight up (as much as possible) is your best bet.
    The reason I mentioned CTC is that rear vent will push the stove out farther from the wall than top vent, and without doing something to reduce CTC, that could present a big problem in limited space. It's a consideration.
    As Fanatical1 mentioned, you can reduce pipe/stove CTC (in most cases) by using double wall or a pipe shield and/or wall shield.
    Change one thing, and it usually changes at least one other. Your installer SHOULD know these things, but it's always a good idea (IMHO) to be an educated client.
    Really looking forward to your install pics. I had that stove in my sights last year, but went in another direction.
    I'm always more concerned about how something works than about how it looks. If it can look good and kick butt too, well, that's the goodest.:thumbs:
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2015
  2. papadave

    papadave

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    Something I haven't seen mentioned yet is your wood supply (could very well be that I missed it).
    Do you have a source or already have some on hand?
    The wood is at least as important as the stove install.
    This....http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/resources/.... has at least a couple good posts on the subject.
     
  3. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Thanks! That's a good point, I would prefer closer wall clearance, so that's another great reason to top vent if possible. I'll post lots of pics once all of this is underway! Yeah, I've read a few horror stories on here of "knowledgable installers", so I want to be up on all aspects of the install.
     
  4. dirtdevil

    dirtdevil

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    +1:tree::saw::axe::cheers:
     
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  5. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Thank you for directing me here... Just read Backwoods Savage 's write-up on wood burning, and was very informative. Well done! I'll read some of the others later.

    As far as my current wood supply- zero. I plan to purchase my first year's wood supply soon, then stack it to dry further until fall. (Learned in the write up to avoid oak) I will then be harvesting some dead standing wood from a family member's place (free fuel! :) ) to begin splitting/stacking for subsequent years. (I will be a three-year plan person)

    Looking at craigslist, I have quite a few characters I can call on nearby for cut/split firewood. We'll see how that goes! (Looks like prices around here average about $150 per cord. (Some a little less, some a little more...)
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2015
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  6. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum Brad.

    I too like the rear vent simply because it will make it easier to clean the chimney. However, a rule of thumb says that any time you have a 90 degree bend in the pipe, that effectively reduces you chimney height by 2-3'. So with 90 degree bends you may have to add another couple feet to the chimney. On the other hand, you may not have to do that. For example, we have the Fireview rear vent then going horizontally a couple feet to the T which is outside. Then the chimney goes up the side of the house. Some say we really need a chase and they can look nice but we have not found a need for one so have decided to not part with the needed cash to do it. In addition, our chimney is lower than recommended but we have no problems with it. The coldest temperature here this winter was -26. Our water pump froze but that is out in the barn. In the house, we were still able to get to 80 degrees which is our normal temperature all winter.

    On the flue indoors, some go with double wall if needed for clearance but in most cases single wall will work fine and it is much easier to work with.

    If you do go horizontally with the flue, keep in mind that code dictates a 1/4" rise per foot of horizontal section. Believe me, it pays to exceed code. Ours has a raise a bit over 1/2" per horizontal foot.

    Good luck.
     
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  7. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    Thank you Brad.
     
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  8. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Thanks for weighing in! I guess my situation is a little more unique than some, as I have already picked out a stove, and now have the ability to chose the chimney set-up from scratch to try and compliment it. What is the height of your chimney?
     
  9. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    15 feet.
     
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  10. Brad38

    Brad38

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    I think I've decided to go top-vent, with a straight-up (no bends) 6" system of about 16.5ft This would mean about 10ft of class-A protruding from the roof, but I think I will probably end up having a chase built around it before burn season 2 after I have confirmed it will draft well the first season. Thoughts?
     
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  11. fox9988

    fox9988

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    One more option. If you install the stove off the exterior wall closer to the roof peak, you will have less class A exposed/shorter chase, possibly less class A to buy and still meet the 10-2-3 rule. That would of course change the layout of the entire room, more decisions.
     
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  12. HDRock

    HDRock

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    What Makes A Good Chimney
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. Brad38

    Brad38

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    You're not the first to call this out! It would require some re-thinking, but now that I've spent more time out there, it may be better to move it over there anyway. Tell me what you guys think!

    Please excuse my very CRUDE drawing!

    So, the raised (6") hearth pad would be located right about here (picture 2 five-foot french exterior patio doors on both sides):
    image.jpg
    image.jpg

    I'm having a five-foot opening cut into the wall of our living room that will enter from the side. Here's what my view would look like walking into the finished garage. Think the hearth may be sticking out too far?

    image.jpg

    We could move it here. I drew some more 1st-grade art for ya! The entry from our living room will be to the left (5ft opening) I could maybe locate the stove on the same wall just to the right of it. It would no longer be a room focal point, but....(you can see the chalk outline from original hearth location at bottom.)
    image.jpg

    This is really what we're after (minus the thru-wall install), but after doing some measurements (even with close-clearance shield/pipe) end of hearth will be a good 4' into the room. Decisions indeed!:
    image.jpg
     
  14. Brad38

    Brad38

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    For some reason, it's opening as a blank page for me?
     
  15. HDRock

    HDRock

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    What , blank pdf?
     
  16. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Yeah, looks like:

    image.jpg
     
  17. papadave

    papadave

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    Do you have a PDF reader, like Adobe reader, installed? It's a good read.
    Anything you can do to keep more of the pipe inside the envelope will help all around. Close to the peak is gooder. You'll still need the same amount of Class A, as anything above the support box has to be Class A.
    Mine goes right through the peak.
     
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  18. papadave

    papadave

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    Ah, you're on a "smartphone". Should be a reader available.
     
  19. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    My thoughts is you should not be worrying about draft. Even without a chase, it will draft just fine. Good luck. Also, no chase, be sure to brace it.
     
  20. JA600L

    JA600L

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    I think it will work especially since you are going straight up with no elbows. That is probably the best way to build a chimney. If you put it at the peak and kept even more pipe inside it will be even better.
     
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