A chain sharpening rig for a rook..

I have use many off theese two in one filing systems from many diferend brands , the only results that i have are to take the rakers so much that the saw jump like crazy when you touch it in a wood .
For the saw shop file depend of what machines you have , cant compare the 2 in 1 versus a usg, or a silvey

 

3/8 LoPro is being run in that chain race.
I am willing to send you a loop of PS3 so you can file it ............
Concretegrazer aint exactely limited in his filing abilities

 

Always will win the man with the one file

 

He took me up on sharpening a chain. The OP just wants to be able to sharpen a chain not build a chain for a contest. If it's the same pitch and tooth profile as the Stihl full chisel yellow link I'll do it. For what the 2 in 1 file is designed to do it does a great job quickly.

 

I have been looking for the quick, good and cheap solution myself. Reminds me of the old engineering joke: fast, good or cheap, choose any two. Then once you have decided on the two you really have to have, get rid of one 'cause you ain't getting two things at the same time either.

I have tried a couple of cheap electric grinders but I find there is just too little guidance and too much dependence on the operator to hold angles, depth, etc. I tried the Granberg fixture and while it does work well, it takes a bit too much fiddling to set up in my opinion although I can see that it does have great potential to do an excellent job.

The last thing I have tried and really like are the Pferd cs-X file guides. These are identical to the Stihl 2 in 1 file guide system. I find it adds a lot of stability to raw hand filing without any setup at all. I also find it is easiest to sharpen both sides of the chain from one side only- just turn the guide around and draw it toward you instead of pushing it away and the entire chain is done in one 'setting'. You have to have one for each size chain you want to sharpen but they do take standard (read: cheap) files other than the raker file, which should last a LONG time anyway. And I find the chain cuts like a banshee- very sharp and very aggressive.

I am not a chain saw connoisseur, and certainly no expert on chains, chainsaws or sharpening but the Pferd guides certainly seem to beat the ever- lovin' dull out of a chain very quickly and easily.

Brian

 

As Mopar said the race I linked to is with 3/8lp. Stihls ps or ps3 is the best chassis to play with. Its all for fun and we're really just trying to see how cold we can get Cut4fun .

If you want to do something else that's fine. I've heard nothing but good things about the 2 in 1. And I'm sure it would be hard to beat if not impossible how quickly you can get a good sharpened chain with properly set depth gauges.

 

Ah, I don't have the 3/8 setup at the moment, I'll be checking your contest thread to see how everyone stacks up. Good Luck.

 

IMHO it is much quicker to sharpen by hand in the field than take the time to swap chains. Grind about every 4-5 sharpening and then address the rakers.

 

I'd take that bet.

 

Yep only 3/8LP picco chain for this chain build off. The other chains have been done to death. So thought we would do something different for once with chains. Link to = Chain build off

For 3/8 LP PFERD 17300 5/32 3/8 Low Profile 17310 PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories - CHAIN SHARP® CS-X - CHAIN SHARP CS-X

 

stihl just re-badges these. Pferd PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories - CHAIN SHARP® CS-X - CHAIN SHARP CS-X

 

I don't do my cutting far from my bench but I can change a chain in about a minute. Two or three if I clean the bar groove, oiler slot, and clear out excess chips. Whether I file or grind it I'm down for at least twice that.

With long bars and full comp chains it takes a lot of time sharpening. Unless it's partly to take a breather, I would not want to spend that much time in the field sharpening. Better to do that at home on a rainy day or after dark.

I should watch my words though - I suspect a highly proficient filer could do quite well in the field and narrow the gap. But I don't see field sharpening saving time in the field.

 

I can't say I've ever needed to swap a cross cutting chain in the field, except after hitting metal. I do swap my milling chains, but they really need to be perfect - I want a good finish on the lumber, and to reduce the intense load on the saw. The point when I change them, they still feel pretty sharp.

It all depends on what you want and need. If you want to get your chains sharp fast, you'll be very happy with a grinder. If you want maximum chain life and sharpness, the granberg type jigs are great once you get past the learning curve.

I wasn't very good at hand sharpening. I'd get them sharp, but I'd be cutting circles because my left and right cutters were different. I needed training wheels to keep my angles and lengths consistent, so I went with the granberg. Once you get the feel for it, you can really get them perfect in not a lot more time than hand filing.

That being said, it's probably overkill if you're just cutting firewood. Really anything that can get the cutters sharp would do. It doesn't matter if you're cutting semicircles - it will burn just the same.

 

Yeah I have seen them, same price as the Stihl version from what I have found.

 

I bet you not faster changing a chain than me grabbing another saw that is ready to go though. Actually I don't normally do a lot of sharpening in the field, I generally just grab another saw.

 

I have the timberline sharpener and the Swedish roller. I find chains sharpened on the timberline seem to stay sharp longer. The roller is for touch ups in the field.

 

Guess what came in the mail today...

 

A new saw?

 

I was going to guess, "a timberline sharpener"... It'll probably seem like a new saw though once you get that chain nice and sharp!