I haven't "hit a lick" on the building for what seems like a week. This and all my projects are for fun, and I don't have fun above my "red line" of 80*.
It's a pdf...I will make it a jpeg at work tomorrow. From the looks of what you have done already, you are fine without my suggestions. You won't find an Engineer to put his seal on your design, but I will bet when you are done, this masterpiece will stand for the next 50 years +.
I'll never stop listening and asking questions. I might learn something Like my building, one piece at a time
No framing news, but yesterday a state roads crew was ditching the road banks up along the road so my "never hurts to ask" attitude popped out and had 8-10 truck loads of junk fill delivered today. On the backside of the building (at the edge of my previous filling) there was a bank about 14' away from the building. I'm planning on a leanto there of about 12', now I have room for about 14' without getting into the new fill. I had to dig out the rocks that previously helped hold the bank back, then add the new fill then replace the rocks. As you can see, I have no fine Italian stone masonry in my lineage but it will do the job and you can only see it from the woods. I had a decent pile of dirt and rock leftover from the foundation and drainage work that I added to the bank yesterday. This ^^ is where that pile was. This was that pile. They will be back Tuesday and I have another small fill site and as long as they keep hauling it, I'll have them stockpile it "out back" for future use. Where I filled today is about 8-9' deep. The weather is heading back to normal and I'll be back at it next week.
Well this genius finally figured out how to view your pdf just now. Looks good but I have a sawmill not a steel mill. Can you think of a reasonable wood equivalent? It's not so much buying the angles as it is the mobile welding OF it, particularly once everything is up in the sky. I appreciate your input as both you and PA mountain obviously have experience with these bar joists where I have none. I'll gladly take and use your suggestions, and please don't take my wood alternate questions as rejection, it's just a question for my un permitted and un inspected dinky project that I'm trying to build (properly) on a "shoe string" budget. My next question in my continuing education you guys are giving me is the top of post / joist bracket in your pdf. It's a lot more involved than I had in mind. I envisioned a simple 7x7 plate welded to the mounting surface with maybe 4 lags into the end grain. I'm trying to figure out what loading or forces am I overlooking that requires.... "all that"? I'm just a guy that went to work after high school and thought I had a decent handle on how building loads were properly delivered down to the foundation from the roof. Are bar joists that much different? Again, this is "inquiring minds want to know" not an argument. Thanks and have a great 4th, even if it's finally raining
I can't even see the original now. eatonpcat This is what fuelrod and I had come up with to support his 29 gauge metal roof panels that are perpendicular to the joist. The roof panels need 2x4 purlins at 2' on center which are parallel with the joist. The 2x4's sit on 2x6's at 2' on center perpendicular to the joist. The 2x6's sit on a 4x4 that is attached to the top chord of the joist. The top of the 4x4 is milled to the 3/12 roof slope. So I was thinkin the 2x6's satisfy the top chord bracing. 2x4' could be used for the bottom chord and X bracing. fuelrod Make it similar to your post base.
I planned on leaving it independent of the wall framing and simply bearing at the ends just like the others. The bottom chord will be a couple of inches above the end walls. I'll need some framing there to both "close in" the joist and support some type of overhang and possibly soffits. I'd like to gain at least 2' for an overhang for rain splash and snow sliding off the roof. If I had thought it out a little bit more I might not have used a joist in those positions and I could have gained 8' of building. It would be simple enough to frame it in, but then I'd need a powerful header. That's a 18' opening.
I've never been so happy to see puddles. 4 days ago you couldn't take a leak there without raising up a mini dust storm.
Actually no, 4' away there's another joist! Too many years of thinking normally, as in this "powerful header" was carrying roof rafters or trusses. It really wouldn't take much of a beam. Only 2' of the roof plus the overhang would be the load. Hmmm , now if I change this what do I do with 2 extra joints? It would simplify closing the wall up to either the roof or soffits along with support for the rolling door track.
Ok, after a couple of weeks of too friggin hot then a couple of weeks of rain, a buddy and his family up for a 2 week vacation, and I'm still getting fill from the state road guys..... I'm back at the building. I managed to build my "header/ truss, beam thingy" and I was able to set it today. I'm sure that it'll do the trick, so is about a half dozen others that have seen it. It's based off this 8x12 Then I "let in" this 2 1/2"×8" in an attempt to carry the center post load to the end of the beam by the post. And then threw a little more wood and steel at it. I picked it just to get "the feel" on how to best set it and how much help I might need, well I just kept going and it's in without any incidents . I got enough fill around the building for the back leanto (now 14' wide) and had them stockpile the fill out back for future needs. It's hard to tell, but this is probably about 40 loads. It's about 8' on the right, 60' left to right, and about 60' across. Lots of junk in it but the price was perfect!
Nice work ! Use the mill for the building for the mill , even better. Been following this and amazing job.
Got the posts trimmed to height today, 3/12 will be the pitch. I'm waiting (ironically) for a bunch of 2x4's to be cut for the remaining wall girts and the roof. My "guy" is primarily a logging outfit and his market for logs is good right now and that's what pays his bills, sawing is secondary for them. I'm buying full dimension lumber for. 50c a bd/ft and that's hard to beat. I've got some specialty stuff to saw. I need to cut something to go between the (level) bar joist and the 3/12 pitch for the wood roof framing, basically the transition from steel to wood for the roof metal.
The dirt fairy's are still showing up. Yesterday I got my gas air compressor out of a storage container after 10 or more years. I'll need it soon for the building so wanted to start on getting it running. I dug out the mouse nesting in the belt shroud, changed the motor oil, checked the compressor oil and filled it with gas. I let it sit for a while, not enthused with the pull start madness that I expected it would take to start it. Well I chit you not, that sucker started on the FIRST pull, ran up to the regulated pressure and idled back just as it's supposed to. It's like I had just shut her down a minute ago.