Posts are all in and starting on the wall girts to get everything working together (strength wise). Then I'll build something like a beam/truss over that opening to carry the 3 roof trusses or joists that correspond to the 3 at the back wall. I believe that I'll get everything done that I can up to about the 12' level, then rent a scissor lift for the taller work.
Is your mill long enough to saw a beam for that span? or do you have a salvage yard near you you could maybe get a long H beam? just thoughts really looking good JB
The 2 end openings are 18'8 and will be spanned by one of the bar joists, the 4 short wall's are mainly to make good sturdy corners. The "beam/ truss thingy" is for the front (gable) opening of 16'6", not so bad but it will support the 3 center roof joists. 21' is the mills maximum cut length.
This is (I believe) all it will take. For the beam part I'm thinking of using an extra timber that I have, it's 6 7/8 x 7 1/2 spruce. My other available beam (short of finding another log and sawing it) is a pine timber 11 1/2" x 8". It's about 24' long but I've been thinking about splitting it 8" dimension and using the 2 pieces as a horizontal "strongback" from corner to corner @ the top of the short return walls in an attempt to transfer wind loads on the big north wall to the corners. Basically stiffening up the 41' wall that's really only fastened at the base without depending upon what minor roof framing that is really only to support the roofing metal. It's not like I'll have the roof sheathed with plywood for "racking" purposes.
This big back wall (17' tall in the center x 41' in length. Is my concern over the beam/ truss for the front opening. That's a simple load that I can keep throwing lumber at until I'm happy. Using these bar joists, with a single bearing point and being cautious about adding a normal diagonal braces from the wall to roof framing like you'd do with wood.....
Great. I been thinkin bout this today while I was doing concrete repairs. Instead of thinking beam, think heavy timber truss. You have 3 point loads on your 16' span. 1 at the peak and 2 at quarter points that need transferred to the door jamb posts. From your drawing above, drop your bottom "beam" down to the level of the bottom of the joist at the door jamb. Put a bearing angle on the door jamb to set the beam on. Make the top chord of the truss the same width as your bottom beam and set it on top of the door jamb and connect the 2 at the top. Now layout the bearing points of the joist on either side of the peak on the top chord and bottom beam. The webs of the truss go from the top chord bearing point down at an angle to the midpoint of the bearing points. This transfers the 3 top chord loads to the bottom chord at 4 points and moves them closer to the door jamb. Use webs the same width as the top and bottom chords and make connection plates out of plate steel. Make the bottom chord as deep as you can. Call me if you need clarification.
I'm at the stage where the big visual progress slows down. I've got the side walls trimmed to height and top plates on, diagonal bracing and most of the wall girts. Today I fine tuned the back wall posts for plumb and added a "stiffback" hoping to transfer wind loads to the corners. If nothing else it provides stability and maintains the proper spacing for the bar joists. End walls^^^ I had a timber on the saw to square up, ended up being a little small so I just split it in half the long way into 2 3x8x21' and put it together in an "L" for a stiffback. I'll be adding a leanto on the back, might even be before winter if I have the time. It will do a good job handling my concerns about stiffening the tall back wall as it will be conveniently framed rafter roof that I can diagonally brace very simply. I've added a crude rock retaining wall so that I can easily have a 12' wide covered space across the whole back for very little work.
Will I go to hell for coveting your equipment? That's an awesome platform. Nice job on the stiffback.
Just realizing what a junk man I am. That platform was built out of scrap. The lifting pole was more scrap and the 9' long cylinder that extends the pole was scrap from Grove crane in PA. (It makes for a great rope swing at the pond) Then the building... both the wood posts and the bar joists were essentially scrap although I did buy or horse trade for some of those materials. I'm one that is a firm believer in "it never hurts to ask" aka cheap bastard. PA Mtn, I think I finally found where to get those "clips" you suggested. I was thinking they were an accessory that would be from the bar joist world (supplier) and their not exactly on every street corner. Then another guy on another forum told me it was more of a steel framing (drywall) item. I do have a good regional supplier that I've bought some structural 6" studs from in the past. I'll go there Monday, fingers crossed. I'll need about 200 of those.
I would connect to the posts per attached and add top and bottom chord bracing as shown. Curious what your plan is for the end wall joists? I would prefer thru-bolts over the timberlok bolts, but they should work.
I like the bridging detail. Can the bridging be on top of the top chord and underneath the bottom chord? I'm not able to enlarge the image.
I guess it could be on top, never seen it done that way as it would get in the way of the decking in a normal situation. fuelrod has some serious skillz, he will figure it out. Unbelievable he is doing this alone! I feel so inadequate...
