So far I only have two tanks through it. I will wait on full judgement till I have about 7-8 tanks through it. So far it feels lighter and more comfortable than the 290. The second time I ran it the saw took too many times to start but I blame operator error on that one. There are times I think it is cutting really fast through the wood and other times I think it is slow. It needs to have a proper break in till I get a good feel for it. There are several White Oaks, one big Red Oak and multiple Ash trees that I need to get cut up once the ice crust melts. Once I get that done I will report back. Once again Cert, let me know if you want to come up my way and play with the saw. If I am heading your way I will send you a message and I could bring it your way. So far I don't have buyers remorse.
Four tanks through the 550 so far. I still don't know if I like it yet. Has positives and negatives. Maybe because it is new, it is not sipping fuel like I read about. I also might get a Stihl chain for it and see if I like the way it cuts better.
Maybe it's all relative? I seem to be able to cut forever on a tank in my MS261C-M but I was also used to the 460s which would drain the tank quite rapidly, especially in big wood.
Sounds like you are wanting to sell it for a slight discount over new. Just joking......Actually kind of bummed you aren't liking it. I was expecting rave reviews now you are kind of making me wonder What's the problem? Not enough torque?
Might be chain related. Doesn't seem to want to sink into the wood, other times it just cuts right through. Seems to start better now but prior issue with starting was operator related. I think it runs through fuel pretty quick. I need to take the 290 and the 550 out and run them side by side. I checked the air filter on it after the fourth tank, it is completely clean. A friend of mine has a Husqvarna rancher and when I used it it revved high but would bog down in hard wood. My Stihl had the torque to pull through it. The 550 doesn't feel like it struggles at all, it just seems like it doesn't bite into the wood that well. Obviously a new chain will stretch some but I have tightened it 4 times and crank down on the bar nuts and it always needs the slack taken up when I refuel. It does feel lighter and more natural in the hand than the 290. This weekend I am busy with family commitments but the next weekend I plan on running it through some wood with a Stihl chain.
I forget what brand of chain they put on it. This week I will go through my chains and get one comparable to ones for my 290 so I have a good comparison. Any suggestions? I am willing to get a new chain for both saws.
Lots run the Stihl RS or if you like a little kick back safety the RS3. Top notch fast cutting chain. If you haven't tried it, give it a try, you'll like it Stihl shop near you ? They can hook you up. Oregon dealer, try the LGX or LPX for a little kick back safety If unsure of the size you need, take the saws or a chain with you. Does your 290 have a 3/8 X .050 ? Bar length ? The number should be on the bar. like 3/8 x .050 X 66 (drive links) Check your 290 make sure it's the 3/8 x .050 (some have the . 325 x .063 ) That's for an 18" 290 with 3/8 X .050 Oregon # 72 =(3/8 x .050) LGX (full chisel) 66 (# of drive links) ..... 72LGX066 Stihl # 3 (3/8 ) , 3 (.050) RS (full chisel) 66 (drive links 33RS66 You said they put the 3/8" Now what is the gauge, (width of the bar grove width) My guess is .050" You will need to know the size because you changed from the .325 to the 3/8". Also when yo buy a rim sprocket you gotta know the bar numbers . BEWARE: Most will want to sell you the .325 x .058, the stock bar & chain set up. . Can you get a close up picture of the bar where the numbers are? Here's mine: 20 " bar , gauge = .050 Pitch 3/8" 72 Drive links.
Any chance we can get a close up pic of the chain that's on it? If it cuts a lot slower with the nose of the bar buried, it could be due to a safety chain.
Absolutely no doubt in my mind your having a chain issue. I know my chain pretty well, and sometimes you just have to learn from the experience without knowing how it is going to work out. I have a few loops of Carlton .325 full chisel chain, their standard full chisel .325. It is also "low profile", and the corners are not as square as the Oregon or Stihl, and they do not advertise these qualities. Its one of those things I couldn't know until I tried it. Good chain, but best suited for saws that have trouble pulling a standard profile .325 full chisel cutter. I file it a different way than I do other chain, to make it more suited for me- but is not nearly as aggressive as the saw should have. I have had a 550xp, 261, 026, 260 Pro, Dolmar 111, Poulan 3000 and some other 50cc saws, and my 550xp is at the top of the power department. There are some other saws that may be relatively close, may have some better qualities in ways... but the 550 is a hotrod, and no doubt yours will get better, especially with a more aggressive chain. Mine is getting stronger, but honestly I didn't think it was that "tight" out of the box.
I think he mentioned he's running 3/8" chain on his 550. I hear you on the 550 being a strong saw out of the box. The last one I ran I thought was noticeably stronger than my 261C-M and both were running their first tanks. Now my 261 has a few gallons through it and has woken up considerably. I like .325 on these saws too. I have Stihl RS on my 262 and when sharp, it's more than enough chain for the power available.
Right, and something else I didn't mention. Regardless of chain pitch, a lot of this stuff out of the box might only have less than .020" raker depth, which most likely isn't enough even with 3/8 chain. Chain can be sharp, but at that depth probably wont feed well.
Maybe frozen wood as well ? I do believe its chain related also . Any new chain should be re-sharpened and the rakers checked . That being said...the 550xp I got for my girlfriend...absolutely rips ! I am a 50cc range and below guy . This is the most impressive all around saw in that range that I have ever had my hands on . Now dont forget...that whenever you have low cc's (50.1 cc) and a high h.p. (3.75 h.p.) rating like on the 550xp...The h.p is mostly on the top end......and you trade off some "low end" torque . As opposed to its detuned counterpart..the 545 . (50.1 cc.....3.35 h.p.) ...which "should" have better low end torgue. My personal secret....whether right or wrong ..is... Whenever the cubic inch displacement equals the h.p rating..its a good all around saw , with the right balance between torque and speed . Like my old Husky 350 with about (3.0 ci...3.0 h.p). Im just ramblin today I equipped my GF's 550xp with a 16 inch .325....050ga. bar ...and it does everything to prove my last paragraph incorrect !! I dont really see the purpose for 3/8 on this application....but thats my opinion. Whatever makes a fella sleep better at night ! Also..if you are not liking that 550.....ill be 2nd in line to take it off your hands
IMHO, the engineers of the saw companies put chain on each model that they feel will optimize the performance of the saw. Why would they put something on that's inferior. I feel a 50cc saw will do just fine with .325 and will be smoother. The only reason to run 3/8ths is if you are buying chain in bulk and want just one standard size. FWIW, The autotune saws do run a little different in the cut. If you lean on the saw and pull the rpm down, it will just respond by adding fuel and pulling harder. Normal saws when pulled down much seem to lose power. Anyway, that's my observation.
Thanks to everyone for the good info and suggestions. I will pick up new chain this weekend. The chain that I have now is a Carlton, as Carbine thought it might be. The saw runs good and feels good, I just want it to cut gooder. Thanks again and I will give an update when I run the new chain through a couple of trees.
I think lawyers make more of the decisions & safety issues are more of a factor than performance. Rare to find a full chisel yellow label chain, have to go to a saw shop usually. IMO you get much better performance with the full comp RS & LGX chain.
I'll have to say yes and no to your response. Yes the green safety chains is the result of the lawyers and bean counters thinking about product liability. But the pitch of the chain is determined by the engineers on what will maximize performance. I certainly agree regarding RS & LGX chain.
Ideal chain pitch on most saws, is subjective. No way Husqvarna engineered this saw to run .325 pitch chain, over 3/8. You may consider .325 ideal (as do I), but I know there are plenty guys out there that beg to differ. The 550 definitely has more than enough grunt to pull 3/8- with authority and is actually faster with 3/8 in some cases that I have seen.
Id be interested in a close up of your cutters/rakers too....oh and ill trade you a 346 ne for that crappy 550.
