FYI 135 DL chain is a lotta work even on a grinder. I really try to avoid rocking those chains out. It's an event to fix one that took a hard hit.
Nice work buZZsaw BRAD. The BL won't know what hit them with the 500i in your hands. I can only imagine the PITA it is is to sharpen that many DL. I think sharpening 84 DL sucks.
How many tanks of gas before its considered broken in? I dont use my big saws (this and 460) that often. Ill run it with shorter bars.
I sharpened it three times and hand filed. Between being Chinese chain and all the "dead" knots i cut through it did a number on it.
I don't think there is a set #. When the ring properly seats and the bearings loosen up a little, and the saws electronics open it up, you'll feel it. If you put a long bar on it and you have long wide open cuts, it'll happen sooner.
Problem is i have no BIG wood at my disposal as of the moment. Scores in limbo have average sized wood. The rest of the BL at my "downhill from here" score is 20" DBH. 500i came with a 25" bar and maybe ill use that instead of the 22" Carlton bar. Yeah come to think of it why not. Brand new chain too! When you said ASAP Jason, what sort of time frame? My normal MO is to use the saw for set diameter of wood. No sense on using 28" if bucking 20". The 361 has been good for all the BL ive been cutting. I can run the 500i with an 18" bar which would be kinda weird but if needed to break her in ill do it.
There is no rush. Just when I get a new saw, I want to run it. Then when I go out to cut, it's at full strength, not partial.
No reason not to run a shorter bar if you want. Run time is run time. I break my saws in just using them like they'll get run their whole life. Like Jason said, you'll know when she's broken in. It'll be a big enough difference to feel & you'll be smiling.
If you're really looking to go after some big stuff you can always come to Bristol and attack the 30 some odd inch red oak on the ground next door to me. I'll even let you have a go at it with my splitter
Put a 20" bar on that thing and run it Brad. Like the other guys said, you'll know when it's broke in.
Can also pick up an 8 tooth sprocket to simulate a heavier load and bring the rpm down some. The 500 really shines with an 8 tooth.
I always prefer to have a longer bar on than the wood I'm cutting. If possible. For 20" wood, a 25 or 28" is pretty good. Interesting about the 500i I haven't run one yet. Nice and light tho. What ever saws I get Need to be able to work well in the cold. There have been a couple sold locally and in Fairbanks. Probably Tok also. As I busheled with 2101 and 056s and did a Lot of cutting with 2100s . I'm curious about the claim that the 500i is similar to them. I'de be happy if they are as good as my 460 that Mike juiced up for me. That saw is getting some age on it . As are all my biggish saws. It will be a year or 2 before I upgrade as I'm building our house and that uses up all the $.
Yeah.. I've run a 2100 but it was hot-rodded. Serious muscle! Just because the advertised hp is close, that says nothing about torque. 79cc vs 99cc. I have a 42" and 28" b/c for my 94cc.
On a stock 500, I would probably run an 8 with a 24 inch bar. Ported it runs it pretty well with a 32. That is a 28 in the video