Good evening friends, my 455 rancher isn’t oiling so i took the clutch off and blew out the small oiler tube that goes to the bar. Still not oiling. Also when i put the clutch back on i feel like i crank it down pretty good, so why the heck does it keep spinning off when i run it to check the oiler.
Clean the threads ,use a bit of blue “ loctite “ ,or steal a bit of your wife’s fingernail polish to put on the thread . Also ,if you don’t want to go the “ loctite “ ,or Tahitian passion fruit fingernail polish route , when you first start the saw ,engage the chain brake for a bit . It’ll torque the clutch down ,as will a little light cutting .
Usually the line from the tank to the pump gets clogged with sawdust. Take the pump off and remove that line. Bet its caked up with debris. I usually start the saw and rev it up a bit and engauge the brake a few times. That will seat the clutch on the crank.
Great tips thanks guys, i also saw a guy on you tube last night put gas in his oil well and run it for a little bit. Have you ever heard of that.
I’ve not used gasoline . But, have used diesel ,or kerosene to clean out the tank and lines on a crudded up saw .
That works well on the older saws that use pulse pumps or crankcase pressure to pump the oil because those systems use check valves. If they sit for years sometimes the checks or plungers get sticky and the gas will get them going again. If you or someone in the past has used waste oil for bar oil, gas will clean all the gunk out. Just be carefull with gas as a cleaner. The muffler is next to the oil port. Gas will not disolve woodchips or foreign material.
Gas, diesel, anything to thin the oil out will "help" it clean itself. If I only have summer bar oil when I cut in the winter I will make winter oil with a couple of glugs of diesel.
Ya the guy on YouTube also mentions the part about gas next to the muffler. Im guessing diesel 911 would do the same thing. I will try these suggestions tonight and let you guys know how it works out. Thanks again
I say some diesel 911 cuz thats what i have on hand rt now. I put a drop in the gas when a carb is being a little fussy. My biddy is a mechanic and he taught me that trick, it seems to work great. Just a drop though. Iv never used waste oil for B&C oil before, iv heard of it though, i would only use it in a pinch i guess.
The clutch needs to be torqued on properly. Some guys get by with going full throttle for a second and hitting the chain break, that shoul tighten the clutch up enough, but the proper ways is to torque it on. Remember the clutch gets tighter as you use the saw. I would strongly suggest not using any type of thread locker, this is not appropriate, and will make the clutch to hard to remove later, totally unnecessary and inappropriate. As others have suggested clean out the line that is in the tank. If that doesn't work inspect the pumps drive. These pumps are a known weak point on the saw, replacement pumps are inexpensive.
My 455 oil pump failed while still under warranty, shop replaced it. But that is the only trouble I ever had and it has cut a lot since then.
I’ve had to clean my 455 Oiler once, same kind of issues. Appreciate the shortcut tips in this thread.
Got my clutch on, hit the brake a few times it worked, i could watch my oiler without the flaming hot clutch flying off and making sparks on the garage floor. Cleaned out the oil tank with diesel 911 ran it and 455 is back in action thank god, that 576 is getting heavy.
