372xp x-torq rebuild?

Worked on the saw the entire day. I thought I had bagged and tagged everything for this 2012 372xp but I was wrong and luckily found everything I was missing in one container. That said, I spent most of the time cleaning parts and looking for parts.

I started off with installing the seals. Used a long socket of appropriate diameter and tapped them. Compared them to the leaking 372xp I had and they looked about the same.

I made sure not to forget the little o-ring that goes on the crankshaft on the PTO side.



New meteor piston and cylinder. Reused the wrist pin bearing as it looked in good shape and I didn't have a new one so no choice really.

The parts washer really makes life a lot easier. I like working with clean parts a lot better than crummy slimy oily sawdusty parts that for sure.



The handle I used from a 2018 372xp because it looked in better shape but there was a slight gap in the seam. It did not leak so all was good.



Here I'm reinstalling the fuel and vent lines and the throttle cable. Man that fuel line was a PITA to push through. Looks like brand new parts am I right?



Laid out the bolts I washed. Took about 8 seconds to wash all those bolts in the parts washer. So convenient.



Washed the carb and replaced all the gaskets. Walbro RWJ kit.



Installed the intake boot, carb, and air filter housing onto the cylinder prior to installation. Makes life easier for sure.



Chain brake peg that holds the spring was split in two somehow so I grabbed one from another 372xp.



24" 3/8" pitch .058" gauge test bar. I sharpened the chain after doing the first few test cuts. Saw started up right away I was pretty happy.



Until I wasn't............I forgot to tighten the damm nut properly on the flywheel and it rattled loose. I think the saw overheated because I revved it up when I was done to see if I needed to re-adjust the high side of the carb.......and then it just cut out. When I pulled the rope felt like no compression.......and I thought for sure I had blown up the connecting rod due to my earlier mishap with pulling the crankshaft in........But it turns out I sheared the pin on the flywheel.



I had taken off the cylinder at first and was stunned to see zero damage to the cylinder, piston, connecting rod, or crankshaft. And then I glanced over and saw the issue.

Put everything back together and it was already close to 6pm so I decided to wait until tomorrow to do some test cutting. I did start it without the bar though and it fired right up.

When I went to put the bar on I noticed the damm chain was spinning the crank and was super confused. The e-clip that holds the rim sprocket was kind of busted up - I had to tap it off with the brass hammer and a flathead and it deformed and flew off.

Then I noticed the damm clutch drum wasn't spinning the oil worm gear even though it had been working earlier which made it even more confusing. Then I grabbed another clutch drum and compared the two and the cutout for the "new" one was much deeper!!! Wth. I forgot to take a pic but it was twice as deep. Once I installed that the drum spun freely and turned the worm gear properly. Weirdness.

Anyways, it was a long, long day....but very satisfying and educational.

 

If you cut the end of the fuel line off on a long angle, the pointed end is easy to feed through the holes. Then just cut it off square again where it attaches to the carburetor or fuel filter.

 

Thanks for the tip. That's a good one. I just slowly pushed it in with needle nose pliers until I had enough exposed I could grab with long angled needle nosed pliers. I will do your method next time for sure!

 

Double checked the flywheel the other day and it looked good. Did some more test cutting and made some minor adjustments to the carb. Idling around 2700-2800rpm and maxing out on the high end around 12,500.

Thanks for all the help!

Onto the next one!

 

Nice!

I'm trying to figure out why a Stihl 362 is pushing bar oil out nearly everywhere other than the bar. The little gasket/tube/grommet or what ever it's called, betweent pump outlet and oil channel, is fine. Oil pump body appears to be intact. Passage is clear to the bar oil port. Guide bar is throughly cleaned, hole and groove clear. Oil seems to be coming from behind the stainless plate between the body of the saw and the bar. Plenty of oil, just not going where it's supposed to.