A little more tear down. Pulled the plumbing to the left side, pulled the left side fender broke one bolt. Unbolted the right side fender leaving the hydraulics attached and ratchet strapped it up out of the way. Removed the clutch springs and linkages and pulled the cover.
To pull the clutches you have to first remove the clutch forks. From the underside of the machine there is a bolt,keeper, jam nut and threaded post/bushing that goes through the casting and into the bottom end of the clutch fork. You have to remove the bolt and the keepers and remove the 1 1/2” jam nut. Once that’s off the threaded post has two slots machines across its face like a big Phillips head screw. That’s the part I’m at now..... The posts are pretty well stuck so I heated with the torch then sprayed the heck out of them. Might give it a shot later with more heat. I forgot to mention it’s in a horrible spot, unless you remove the diagonal braces underneath first. I’m trying to do it without, but I may have to....... Here’s the bolt with the keepers and jam nut on. Looking out of the tight spot I’m in under the back of the tractor. Shot towards the front..
Cool to see you bringing that ole girl back to life. Probably going to be a few sessions of “heat and beat” along the journey.
Well tried making a tool out of and old wrench with no luck so I decided to give up on the tight quarters work and tear out the diagonal braces. Some torch heating, swearing, cheater pipes, 6’ pry bar and 10 lb sledge I got them out! They don’t look like much, but 3” solid square stock they got some weight to them! I made tons of room so I can get at the clutch fork pivot bushings though Now I’ve got to come up with some sort of giant Phillips head that can go on a breaker bar. I’m thinking on welding something up, but who knows. You can see what I’m talking about in these pictures. They are 1” coarse thread studs and I need to be able to get something into those plus looking slots and crank them loose. Any thoughts throw them out there....
Same here just can’t figure where!? I thought of taking a socket that fits over the stud and grinding up a grade 8 bolt to fit sideways in the slots. The grinding slots in the socket for the bolt to sit in and tack weld them in place. It’s only one groove that I’d be grabbing, but?????
Drag link socket. Talked with the guys in the shop this morning and he said give this a shot. Said he’s used it on Mack truck king pins so it should be strong enough.
Hey J., "do not remove label under penalty of law". Nice buy, but how do your close neighbors feel about the lovely roar ?
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...MI6LmTlbax6AIVBG6GCh32GwLBEAQYCCABEgL4afD_BwE how about something like this?
I’d love to get one of those! In this case I don’t think it will fit. This thing is 1” diameter the pictures don’t do it justice...
Been soaking it down for a while. I’m going to pull on it once no heat then I’m going full torch mode!
Well just tried that socket and broke the one side free, with the help of a 3’ pipe. Nothing doing on the other side so I’m going to have to lay the heat to it. Maybe tomorrow when I have time and it’s not raining.
I have run into stuff like that before and the tool you need for that is that hand held impact driver that you hit with a hammer. Like what Warner posted. They do work quite well when you get how to hold it figured out. Easy for me to say that as I already own one, but sometimes you are better off to spend the money on a tool insted of spending hours fooling with something.
Ya, you could be right on that tool not being big enough for a 1" diameter stud, I am just catching up now lol.
Yep, just a bit small for this job. Although it’s on my bucket list of tools because I know how handy they are!