If I remember correctly the one model of US stove has no air control (i think grizz had that one) so thats where the bad reviews are coming from.
Mistake, is that what you call it, more like a disaster if I remember correctly.:)
I cut all my wood in the spring and or fall so winter can kiss my ash.
"That's internal flue temps of 212, not surface magnet temperature, to prevent condensation." Highbeam, that quote of yours from anther thread had...
Every piece of information I have ever read about flue temps and what I have used as a guide line with no creosote problems has been the 225...
Not any difference with my insurance company but it can vary from company to company, best to know where you stand.
So if the air control is not making any difference whats the fire look like?
On mine tested with a IR tester it is more like 25 degrees (12 to 20 inches).
I get it your post now, "gases exiting the flue" would be difficult, maybe he ment gases entering the flue. Some have have said they would like to...
1971 blue Mach III, been sitting around and it needs a lot of work but sure would like to see it go to someone who could do it justice.
Not sure I understand what you said there, the 212 or 225 temp is surface temp, the internal temp would be higher.
Sad indeed.
One thing nice about the Drolet is you can stop it dead in its tracks by closing the air way down.
"The thermal characteristics of masonry chimneys probably fall somewhere in between insulated factory-built chimneys and uninsulated stovepipe....
That sucks, in many cases you are better off doing the research and doing it your self, not always easy to find a reputable business.
FreeBTU's, is this an uninsulated flue liner in a stone chimney? If it is that could be part of the problem, a little harder to keep the flue temp up.
Its surface temp on the inside of the pipe.
How do they burn and what moisture content?:rootintootin:
I have a project bike for you!
I'm speechless.
