Jotul Oslo air control lever??

Great suggestions and yes, been through all of them to include replacing fairly new gaskets just for peace of mind. Chimney length is around 26' and yup again, I put in an inline damper on the flue.
If anything I have learned to burn better over the years but for some reason this stove doesn't want to work with me.
If Jotul comes up with a solution, I'll give them a shot and see how it does. BUT, if it should be a string me along session, I'm still going with the IS.

 

No I have no problems with my stove bought new in 2008, did great the first year and even better, as my wood got better and I realized how much this Mean Green Heating Machine loved Dry wood. But I know you know that .

 

My dealings were good with Jotul, A completely different situation than yours but the did replace my stove. (it was a paint issue)

 

How long are your burns typically? and how about your overnights??

 

We burn 7-24s and haven't used the furnace except for a few occasions. You know the definition of burn time. No one else is. But a good hot fire above 300'
stove top 8 hrs. When it is real cold one of us gets up in the middle of the night and fills the box. Good hot coals 12 14 hrs or longer.

 

Got a call from my stove shop this morn. Jotul sent them a air intake rebuild kit. I'm gonna grab it this morning when I walk the dogs and ask them what jotul is thinking. Will post later

 

Doesn't look good, they tried to passify me by giving me a air control kit only. They gave me a lever, and new slide plate and a couple clips. Problem is, theres noting wrong with the one I have now.
Looks like it's time to write a letter to the Jotul rep directly and speak my peace. Leaning hard towards the WS IS now. Might as well just keep the Oslo off the hearth and move it to the garage.

 

My Oslo Heats My Garage ?

 

Gonna try one more thing, since it's still in the house. Stove shop guy suggested playing around with the air inlet hole at the rear bottom of the Oslo. Closing the air inlet space slightly may help, won't hurt.

 

I would check all the joints that are bound together with furnace cement, and short of giving up I may just take the thing apart myself and re-cement it. I've had to re-furbish a few of these, but not unless they were a decade old or more and had seen HARD use or were burned with the ash door open, which usually only cracks the lower burn plate and doesn't actually have any play on air flow itself. Most of that stove is held together with furnace cement.....

 

Thanks fellas. Just went back for the first time to the "other" forum to get my read on over there. Some simular issues , most of the fixes are close to your suggestions.
Will take a closer look over the weekend. Thanks again!

 

Was thinking of going to this stove from a VC2550 but sounds like very similar issues with air leaks...... uggggh!! I would go with an IS also but it is too big for my fireplace opening ( would leave me with a 1/2" clearance to top) good luck luckily you have all summer to ponder

 

Actually I don't. I have a deposit in on the IS, but not sure I want to take it if I can't find the problem with the Oslo. One way or the other I have to get the Oslo back on it's feet again if for me or a potential buyer.

 

How well does that NorthStar splitter do for you?

 

Love it!! Never leaves its vertical position and starts first pull just about every time!

 

I need some help. I purchased an Oslo this past November but because of the mild winter I have only used it the past week or 10 days. I am burning dry ash with some red oak mixed in once in awhile . I cannot keep a fire more than 2-3 hours in this stove. I have filled it as full as I could get it twice and the stove temp on the back left top was over 700 degrees. That scared me. I feel like you can't control the air. Any suggestions ? I used to have a Vermont Castings encore that was 10 years old wish I had it back.