You can buy one of the little handheld Oregon 12-volt chain sharpeners or even a Harbor Freight table top sharpeners for not much money. Then you have dealers that sharpen your chain with their fancy stand-alone automatic sharpeners. I just wonder if there is any difference in quality of the filing. I know a dealer that brags that he can do them really quickly, like, four minutes! Granted, he doesn't charge much, but I wonder if you could get just about same quality with your own cheap 'automatic' sharpener. Then, you got to file the rakers! I don't know that dealers even do that! I have a Stihl 2-in-1 and it works okay. Not great for me, just ok. Still working on improving my technique on that. Now, somebody gave me the little Oregon gizmo and also a Harbor Freight table sharpener. I haven't used either yet. I know another guy who really likes his Harbor Freight.
Quality does make a difference. Was at a co-worker's place today, and he has one of the cheap models. All plastic, with a lot of give/play to it. He says he can use it, but wouldn't make that purchase a second time. I have stones for my Dremel, and going slow & steady I can do all-right. I use the file most frequently, and the Dremel for "heavy" touch ups.
What Chaz said. Big difference in quality. A friend gave me his HF chain grinder. It works, but is a pain, sloppy play, I use it to correct my angles when they get off. I have the Stihl 12v grinder and hand files I usually use. Would like to get a nice Oregon bench grinder and breaker and rivet tools.
Years back i used the Carlton "file-o-plate". Tiny guide that locks into chain. Guides angle and you can set raker depth. Also have used the round file clamped in the guide. Oregon brand if i remember. I now mostly "freehand" with the chain or on occasion, the bar in the vise using a round file. Ill sharpen "in the field" to touch up as well. Most cases i have a second chain in the tool box with me to change over in the event i hit nails/rocks/dirt etc and it really dulls. I got a "Dremel" like grinder for Christmas a couple years back and havent tried it. I have "severely" dulled chains by hitting metal. See my post I like heavy metal, but my chain saw doesnt. I ended up hand filing it. Used a new file. Maybe ill try the electric one someday, but i consider myself a pretty good sharpener by hand and it works for me. Regardless of method, "practice makes perfect" and speed as well.
This ^^^ X2 is why it's a great benefit to learn to hand file. I also carry 1 or 2 extra chains, but unless some serious damage happens, a pass through with the file is pretty quick and painless.
The harbor freight grinder does not have an adjustable tilt on the head. The only thing I think they are good for is really mess up a chain. You can get it into decent shape then file it. I have a roughneck grinder from northern tool. I'm pretty sure all of the grinders around the $100 price point are the same. It has a little slop in just about everywhere. If you are not careful the chain will fall down in the vise. The stop for the chain will hold the chain up/higher so if you aren't watching you will mess up a cutter. It is not a high production grinder for these reasons. You can get good results out of it but I wish I had spent the $300 for a real oregon. I also have a couple of bar mounted file guides. The one is an oregon. It is the pro grade one made with some metal components unlike the all plastic on lowes sells. I also have a granberg filenjoint. I like the granberg better. If you are looking to improve your filing skills one these would be for you plus they are fast to use.
I suck with a file so I bought a Timberline sharpener. It works quite well and makes a sharp chain. But sometimes it's a pia to get set up properly. Then I bought an Oregon 620. That thing is amazing. Most of my chains are Stihl 3/8 .50 full chisel so once it's set I don't have to change any settings. The vice clamps the chain in place as the grinding head is lowered and releases on the return stroke. I'd never go back. That being said, I still cary the Timberline in the field for those 'just in case' moments.
This is what I use. Blue one is for 3/8 silver for .325. they are made by Husqvarna and work great on Oregon and Carlton chain. They do work on Stihl brand chain also, but a bit more care has to be taken to make sure they are saddled properly on the drive links.
You got a link for that or know what they are called so one can find them? I have no idea how that would work.
Here is a video of the small file guide member, tamarack, has shown... The web page links I find on it, the word "pixel" is part of the item description and appears to be a type of Husky chain? I don't know what "pixel" means in this regard. This is the first I have seen this type file guide. I wonder if this will work for common chains or just "pixel" chains, whatever that is. This Husky gizmo is certainly cheaper than the Stihl 2-in-1 file guide gizmo (2-in-1 costs about $40).
They work on my Oregon chains and the Stihl RS23. Any Husqvarna dealer should have them. Note that the .325" narrow kerf guide is too tight to fit on a standard kerf bar. The hole in the guide takes the proper sized file for the chain. I'm not too confident about the pressed tin raker gauge for the 3/8" low profile chain
I used a dremel for over 10 years. I thought it was ok, and easier than filing. Until I got a 2-in-1. Rakers and teeth at the same time - I timed it at 3.5-4min for an 18" .325 bar. Huge improvement since the rakers are uniform and done at the same time. I've dipped the chain in the dirt before - dremel took quite a bit to get it back, file took hardly any time at all. Also the dremel head collects oil and looses it's bite, the file doesn't care.
There is alot of sharpeners I have never tried. I have a harbor freight grinder, but I don't like it. Seems to go through the grinding wheels quickly. I might buy a 2 in 1 just to see if it's a good as alot of people say. The timberline seems like it would be very accurate. Freehand? Well I'm ok at it, but I'm humble enough to admit I loose the angle about 30-40 percent into the chain.
So what you need to do on the HF grinder is when you buy it, pat the extra for the extended warranty. When the wheel wears out, take the whole sharpener back and get a new one. The guysmat HF toldmme to do that when I bought one.
The Husqvarna chain sharpener in the above posts is also avsilable at Tractor Supply. I just bought one, but haven't tried it yet.
Nice! So they will replace the whole unit just because the wheel is worn.? I will have to try this approach.
