Needing outside rack space, I moved a row of about one year seasoned smaller unsplit rounds in my basement this fall. I stacked them in the furthest position hoping to burn last and “kiln” dry a little. My stove is in my basement to augment the forced air, oil furnace. After stacking, I split a piece and took several readings from my MM. About 30%, taken 10/29/18. Fast forward to today. I’ve reached that row and started burning from it last night. I saved the piece I originally split in 2. 1/2’d one and the readings are: Not sure if you can tell, but it’s pushed in far enough that I don’t need to hold it. This is only the second time using a MM, so what wood you call that split (besides good to burn)? Huge difference from the end to the middle. This area was not a natural split/check that I followed when I split it open. I also checked a round of oak. Same large variance.
The Wood Wolverine yeah you will find great differences between the end and the middle. Some say you can average the differences. I just go by the middle because it's easier than doing that. Obviously the ends dry faster
Good to know. What numbers do you get concerned with, as far as moisture and creosote? I've been a 3-4 year plan guy for quite a while, so I've never concerned myself with MM's. Since I moved this row in, I was curious and the meter was cheap. In the past, I've gotten very very little when I sweep the chimney. Will 20% really change that?
Very good question! I wondered that and took some readings both ways. They did vary a few points, not much. Higher when with grain, little less when across.
At 20% max & an average well below that I wouldn't be concerned with creosote buildup. If it sizzles after being inside that long then I might wait. Otherwise burn it.
I sure had a much larger bed of coals this AM! I think my burn times increased quite a lot. Only bad thing is it's mostly smalls.
20% is considered by most to be the upper end of "dry" wood. Generally the pins are supposed to be parallel with the grain. All these test were done right after re-splitting the wood? If so, you should be fine. Another thing you can check is the calibration of your meter...the ones I'm familiar with say to put the pins against your palm (not too hard! )...the meter should read in the 30% range...
Mine has a little chip in the cap....suppose to read 18.3% +/-1% .....needs to be done at 60-80*F. Just push pins in holes of cap n take reading.
Yes, they were fresh splits. It's a Horror Freight cheapie so I'm not real confident it's super accurate.
I harvest wood with all different levels of moisture content but mostly stump to stove wood (low moisture content). Where I place the wood in my stacks depends on what my moisture meter says ie front row or back row. Purists would say parallel with the grain but Ive played with both ways just to see since I see it discussed on forums. It doesnt seem to make much of a difference to me but I still go along with the grain since its a generally accepted practice. Im not a big fan of 20% mc but will burn it if I have to. If part of the split is 20% I kinda think of it being a 20% split but thats just me.
Even with the ends being 8 and 11%? The 20 was only around the core. And I'm guessing you say that because of chimney deposits? Like mentioned, I'm a rookie reading numbers on this meter. The true test will be when I clean out the flue this spring but I'd sure like to know what % does what. Appreciate the share of info.
its been said that moisture meters don't measure moisture. they measure electricity. the more moisture in the wood, the more electrical flow. since different species of wood have different properties, the same piece of wood will give you various MM reading at various temperatures.
The Wood Wolverine ..the numbers above 8 +11 +20 is 39 divided by 3 or 13. So your average moisture content in that piece of wood is 13%. This is how my moisture meter told me to get a true reading on a split.
I also feel like its species dependent as well. 20% for Ash is different than 20% for Oak for example. I get a little sizzle from 20% oak and none from 20% ash. Typically soft sappy wood is gooder when its dryer than 20%. Creosote build up is also dependent on the stack temp. Particularly at the top of your stack. As long as your stack is hot enough that the smoke isn't condensing on the sides before it exits your build up shouldn't be excessive. A simple test for this is to look at the top of your chimney and see if there is a small space of clear air between the chimney and the smoke or does the smoke roll straight out of the top of the chimney no clear air gap. Better yet no smoke out the chimney at all.
I have questioned the accuracy of my MM. I’ll take a piece of wood that’s been css for 3 years and spent the summer in the wood shed and test it. If it’s under 20% then I figure it’s close to calibrated. This pic was from some wood that’s been stored in a dry basement with a furnace running every winter for 5 years. I have never had a reading that low before.
