Not sure why you are willing to pull a flywheel and throw money at a coil but not pull the muffler and have a look?? The 89ohms reading sounds way high, if I read the report correct. It does sound like coil, but I always pull the muffler for a quick look.
I suspect your coil is bad. A good coil should measure between 10 to 400 ohms(not k ohms). If you want to test your multimeter turn it to the lowest resistance setting and try a known good coil on one of your other saws.
Oh man, that sucks. That's why a compression test is needed..."it pulls over hard" doesn't necessarily mean much
Actually it does. It means it's got compression, or it's almost seized. That's too bad & l'd bet Kevin's right about the seals.
Yeah that's what I was fearing. Block off the intake and exhaust and pressure/vac test. You're in deep now.
Intake side of the cylinder is nearly perfect. At least that which I can see over top of the piston. Guess I am going to pull the cylinder over the weekend and get a real read on how bad this is. What do I look for as far as the crank bearings being bad?
Ouch! I don't know the saw. I'm sure there have been quite a few rebuilds over the years. Maybe some will lead you in the direction for the most economical oem rebuild options.
I checked that when I pulled the fly to check the key. All good and tight there. Gent at the shop where I picked up the coil said to look at the exhaust side of the cylinder for damage. Apparently the garbage mixture of what is called gasoline in NJ may be the culprit. Ethanol clinging to water that evaporates at the hotter exhaust side leaving little to no oil on the piston/cylinder. Hope to post some less than ugly cylinder pics later. For now it's off to the woods to do my imitation of a squirrel.
Looks a lot like our old Arctic Cat ZR440 that had an O ring in the head go bad. Coolant leaked into cylinder, and poof, no more residual oil. It looked very similar. I sent cylinder out to have it reworked and am putting it back together at the next opportunity.
Hey huskihl , that wiggle looks familiar. Still need to get that saw off the shelf and fire it up. mywaynow listen to him, he knows his stuff. When I fried my 660 I was sure it was the mix that was left in for close to a year. I would have just threw a piston/cylinder on it and burned them up too. So happy I listened to huskihl and many others here. It saved me pizzing away more money on the saw. Between work and having issues shaking something I just have not gotten out to work on all the wood that needs processed. Good luck getting your saw back in wood.
I wouldn't be so quick to assume that all was caused by ethanol. I've been running ethanol for ~30 years on all sorts of 2 strokes and the only time I got a burn down that bad was due to carburetor issues ( my tuning, not a mechanical issue) on a rotax 521. It was a cold cold weekend and the sled was running really nice and crisp.. well until.....
If it was my saw I'd pressure/vac test it before I did anything. That looks like more than just ethanol damage.
