so, i just did a test, not much resistance all around the door and I checked the manual and it say to replace it every year, I guess i need to figure out how now...
Write down or take a pic of manufacturer label....what make of sbi do you have? They make Drolet,Enerzone.Etc. You can go to the makes website n download users n parts manual (make sure you get serial #s). Should be a part # for door gasket kit...manual will tell you how to install it. Google part#....you may find it quicker n cheaper than orderin from the factory.
Wood stoves : XVR-II this is what I currently have I just pinch/massaged the gasket all around the door a few time with some kleenex and i tightened the handle / lock of the door by turning the bolt about 1/8 of a turn (english is not my first language, i hope i'm using the proper wording here) it is way better now, I still need to change it but at least it is "better" until i get the new one
Plastic bills: Quick! Spend them before they melt | The Star They seem to stand up better than the old ones when found after being flushed down the toilet though!
I got the part # AC06400 self adhesive gasket, manual say to apply silicon ... i will see when I get one, maybe tomorrow I just started a fire and when i closed the door, the fire didn't behave like i'm used to, i nearly killed it ... good sign i guess that what i did worked
the local Rona seem it might have it, I will check tomorrow yup first fire since i played with the gasket / door ... it seem it worked and it is more sealed, the temperature behave completely differently, flue temp is way lower than normal, from a fresh fire
I dont have a flue thermometer. The one on top of the stove floats between 400f and 800f. I dont pay much attention to it. If it's in the red, I close off the air a bit. If its wound nearly off the end, I back it way down. This year, I finally put an automatic temperature sensor on the stove to turn on the fan automatically. My major concern is smoke since I'm in the middle of a tightly packed subdivision. To me, hot as heck gets me more complete combustion, so I run it hard for at least the first 20 minutes after loading to get the smoke levels down quickly. My stove is in a small alcove of my basement...10ft x 11ft. I can pretty much tell what the stove is doing just by how the heat is radiating off of it. My grandfather ran his stoves without a thermometer his entire life without any problems. Good enough for me.
Bah. The logs are merely too long. NS should not affect the secondaries, it just allows you to to load the stove more efficiently. What are you burning, btw? Not saying you shouldn't get secondaries with certain types of wood but generally the less desirable wood makes wilder secondaries. New stove? Are the tubes in the correct sequence, and oriented properly? Getting the slow, lazy rolling secondaries with minimal fire below takes a bit of balancing on the air flow. Too little air and the main fire won't stay sufficiently lit to ignite the off gassing in the secondaries. Too much air and although the secondary combustion is difficult to spot from the larger fire. On a reload make sure to rake the coals forward, and you will cook off the wood gas on the fresh wood, restarting the secondaries.
i got a new cellphone that can do 960fps and took a few videos here 3 I think i'm seeing secondary burn in all of them, right???
What phone did you get? My new phone has that super SLO mo too. I'll shave to try it when I load up some cray-cray flame wood.
