I tried the tool and instead of just pushing the porcelain down and allowing room for the threaded tip to bite the metal sleeve, it pushed the whole sleeve into the cylinder so far that I couldn’t even get the threaded tool near it.
not sure what tool you used but the porcelain needs to be pushed clear thru the hoop on the end of the plug to have room for the extractor to screw into the metal sleeve
Gave up on the f350, saw this roadside the other day and it followed me home today. 03 f250 with the 5.4, 129k, short bed which isn't ideal, but I'm not averse to a set of rails so I can scrounge higher. Been dealing with a 6' bed for years, so nothing new. One exhaust manifold has been done, the other one is ticking so I'll look into getting it done shortly. Cab corners and rear wheel wells have been done, with steel and glass respectively. Calipers, brake lines, several coil packs are new work. Fluids look and smell good. Minor oil leak at the back of the intake manifold. Tranny is smooth, front end tight. Guess I'm a Ford guy now! Never thought I'd say it.
Sweet...don't hafta worry about the issues with the cam phaser and 3 piece spark plugs now! I was kinda looking for a short bed when I bought mine...I think they are easier to "live with"...turning radius and all...my 8' is nice when you really wanna load 'er up though. These things are so dang tall... I can't reach wood in the center of the bed from over the side, and I'm 6' 4"! Thought about switching to a flatbed...even bought a used on, haven't installed yet though. Our new 2017 F250 XL at work is 4" taller even...nuts! Clean things up real well, make sure you know where that oil leak is coming from for sure before fixing it. Mine had the oil drip onto the starter and exhaust that is typical of a head gasket leak...turned out it was just an expansion plug in the back of the right head. Couple bucks and a half hour of work it was all better. Fortunately the 5.4 has a little room between the back of the head and the firewall.
Best fix for the wide turning radius of a Super Duty is to buy a Chevy.... sorry, it had to be done! SD is what a SD is, tough truck, but ain’t never going to be my first choice for Parking Lot Plinko that’s for sure!
Chevy...king of (repair shop) parking lots everywhere! I think the turning radius on my SD is amazing! You want to complain about turning radius...drive a OBS F250/350 4x4! End up in the next county over before you get those things wheeled around!
05 and up SD with the coil sprung front end turn tight for a 3/4 or 1 ton truck, much tighter than the 99-04 truck and those were a big improvement over the OBS with TTB frontends. MasterMech real trucks have a solid front axle....CV axles are for grocery getters
no, the porcelain pushes about half way out of the metal tip....worse case is a few bits of it end up in the cylinder if it shatters or cracks when you push it thru but those come out with an air hose in the cylinder before installing the new plugs. its a learning curve to doing them, most people get scared of shoving the porcelain into the cylinder and dont push it far enough in for the extractor to grab the remainder of the plug tip.....i learned a looooong time ago to just go for the gusto, use the pusher piece and go until it bottoms out....whatever happens happens. havent pulled a head for plugs yet....knock on wood.
Lol. I have to admit, the last SDs I drove extensively were both ‘99s. (V10 F350 single cab SRW and F250 7.3L Crew 8ft bed)
My 99 V10 F250 ex cab 8' bed turned like a ship. The 05 ups turn way tighter than the 04 down coil sprung, and they ride like a dream in comparison.
Didn’t get the chance to reply the other day about my run in with this. I bottomed the tool and the porcelain hit the ground strap and pushed the whole darn metal tip into the cylinder to far to even reach with the threaded tool. Not to mention like you say the porcelain was no where near far enough into the metal tip to accept the threaded tool.
