Dremel Chain sharpener device Vs. Old school filing?

Here r some pics finally of some the wrecked chains

 

Ues I was referring to the full chisel chains when using the Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener sorry. Sometimes I get a head of myself and don't full explain all the details. That's what's great about the guys on this site, catching other people's lack of info. Thanks for catching that creek chub .

 

Skip chain refers to skip tooth chain, where instead of one link between each tooth, there are three. So every other tooth on a "normal" (aka "full comp") chain is simply a link - there's nothing there. Not being very precise here, but a typical 68-DL full-comp chain might have 34 cutting teeth and 34 drive links. A 68-DL skip chain might only have 17 cutting teeth. Not sure my explanation is very good but I'm sure there's a YouTube video somewhere that can explain it better. Skip tooth is typically used on longer bars (28" and up) on bigger saws, in softwood. You need some horsepower to run skip chain. Full-comp chain will tend to clog on softwood, especially with bigger saws, and a full-comp chain on a long bar has a lot of teeth that need to be sharpened.

Chisel chain can also be square-ground or round-ground, which is a whole separate discussion.

 

Bought this

 

Yes good advice, full comp on 28 and longer bars sucks. Pulling a 32 inch or longer bar with full comp takes alot of power! I needed a new chain one time and dealer only had full comp. We were cutting some huge pines at the time and a thought it would do ok. My 394 that i had at the time seemed like a 50cc saw with that setup.

 

Does carbide tipped chains needs diamond files to sharpen them?

 

Any filing guide can be used with any traditional, not square filed, chain but it does require that you use the right size file and guide for the chain you want to sharpen. The Stihl guides come in sizes suitable for the typical .325 chain and also in a size for a 3/8 chain. They may also come in a size suitable for a low profile chain. If you look on the box your chain comes in it will tell you exactly what file to use with that chain. There is no difference between the guide for a standard chain and a ow kickback chain because the part you sharpen is not involved in shaping a low kickback chain. That is just an extra lump between the teeth that keeps the chain riding a bit higher at the nose of the bar so it is less likely to snag on the wood.
All of the manufacturers make chain compatible with each others saws so brand name doesn't matter when it comes to choosing a filing guide or a chain. At least not in terms of compatibility. We each have chain brands that we like better but I will use a Stihl chain on a Husky bar mounted to an Echo saw if I feel like it because those are not based on manufacturer but on bar and chain specs. With that esoteric chain combination I would still use my Granberg file-n-joint for sharpening it, a guide I happen to like.

 

That little kit should work fine if you use the right size file.

 

Yup the Oregon chains I use are 5/32 file size so I will attempt my first shot at sharpening chain tomorrow....I'm still confused on filing the flat part of the chain , like the part of the chain that's flat on top


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The top of the cutting tooth never gets sharpened by anything. There is one edge that gets sharpened, it is not like a knife blade and more like a chisel edge.

 

Ur sayin the thing on the top on the left side don't get touched...the top plate it's called


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Right on, the flat cutter tooth only gets sharpened from the underside. Your file or bit sharpens the underside (flat part) of cutter and side of cutter all at once .

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That little stamped metal thing is a guide for the rakers. You lay it across the top of the teeth with the depressed part lined up with a raker and just file off the part that sticks through the slot in the depressed part. Depending on your kit the depression will give .025 or .030 raker height when you do that.

 

The cutter is designed to dig into the wood and lift a little and then the edge of the cutter actually severs the wood fiber from the log. The raker or depth gauge(located in front of cutter) is there to control how deep into the wood the cutter is allowed to be. Try to visualize this process and it helps to makes sense of it all.

 

Youtube is your friend when it comes to this.

 

You know there is a chain sharpening tutorial at the top of the Chainsaw and tool forum. Right here on this great site.

Chain sharpening tutorial.

 

Ok I def need to watch more videos cuz my first attempt was awful...I sharpened chain went to cut and it didn't cut at all still lmao....guess it takes much practice lol

 

Don't forget to check and make sure that you didn't put your chain on backwards I know lots of people who have done that including myself. Scotty Overkill is my tree cutting partner and he's still never let me live it down. Hey if you're in a hurry it can happen.

 

My Chain stays on the bar when I do it....I can't take it off cuz nothing to hold it and all, easier on bar....but much more practice