In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Grandma is getting a face lift.

Discussion in 'Non-EPA Woodstoves and Fireplaces' started by WeldrDave, Aug 23, 2016.

  1. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    I ordered it right through "Dura vent" stove pipe manufactures. There is a website called buildit.com
     
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  2. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Thanks all for the compliments, it was some work, but worth every dime in my opinion! :)
     
  3. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Here's a side by side before and after... Wow! o_O
     

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  4. Well Seasoned

    Well Seasoned Administrator

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    Wow, what a difference!o_O it's like night and day man!
     
  5. woodsman416

    woodsman416

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    Outstanding work Dave! Those Fishers are built to last eh?
     
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  6. HDRock

    HDRock

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  7. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    I don't know how you did that HD but Thanks!!!! :cool: Pretty coooool!
     
  8. HDRock

    HDRock

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    We all like shiny things :D can't forget the shiny new pipe.


    DSCN2120.JPG


    DSCN2188.JPG
     
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  9. Locust Post

    Locust Post

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    That looks mighty fine good Sir and Mrs.
     
  10. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Well, I'm a little partial because they were the first airtight wood stove and there steel "not" cast with the exception of the doors. There easy to operate, :whistle:"once" you get the stove tuned in to your chimney, they look nice in my opinion, easy to work on but heavy as Hell!!! There's really nothing can go wrong with them except the hinge pins get worn but as you can see they do/will get rusty and that's the reason for the thread. Lastly, these stoves will "CRANK OUT" heat! Just ask anyone who has one on the forum. They are pre-EPA but with a baffle and the above statement, you can get them to burn real clean! The biggest factor is "dry/well seasoned" wood. When I was a wee kid, we first had a big old potbelly parlor stove and it heated well and then my Mother decided she wanted a Franklin stove... "What a piece of $#!T", My Father did nothing but swear at the thing, then when Fisher hit the market they went out and bought one new, It was on from there, I've owned and collected them ever since I got this one. :cool:
     
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  11. Coaly

    Coaly

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    You aren't done yet Dave. After you see these, you'll want the dampers to match what was used on plated doors;
    You can make your old black painted knobs match the dampers on Nickel Plated Doors by wiping paint off fin edges with Mineral Spirits before final heat cure. If already cured, Lacquer Thinner. There were two dampers. One with polished edges and one brushed edges. If yours are polished, use ONLY metal polish. If edges are rough, Scotch Bright ACROSS fins, NOT lengthwise the easy way.
    Here are the two caps for plated (or high lighted - non original) doors. Huge difference and doesn't take much for the original look;

    Alum. Brushed L.  Polished R..JPG
    Aluminum Dampers; New Old Stock; Brushed left, Polished right. Original look for Nickel Doors.
    Even black doors look 100% better with this treatment.

    Here is a new original one with Fireplace Legs like yours. Notice high lighting around door edge if you want to match plated doors;

    Grandma Baro 1 9-2011.jpg

    Grandma Baro 2 9-2011.jpg Only the front has paint removed from Nickel. The door side edges were rough and painted black. These are the brushed caps.

    Brass plate doors use SOLID BRASS dampers you finish the same way;

    Solid Brass before and after.JPG New unused old stock on left; Finished with Satin Black paint, Mineral Spirit wipe the polished edges right. That is the original look for Brass Doors.

    If you have doors, handles, caps, bolts and rivets plated they will look like this before paint inside and out;

    Insert Nickel  2.jpg Paint and again wipe raised areas with Mineral Spirits.
    Notice original above is not as highly polished as replated doors.
     
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  12. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    That is beautiful Coaly. I'm going to put the effort into the XL when it's time for that. Grandma happened to fall into a $$$ situation so I wanted to do what I could with what I had. I would love to do all that, but I got to get her ready for the up and coming winter, and she is now in "much" better shape that she was and doesn't look half bad either! :).
     
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  13. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    You gotta admit, Those Fishers "are" very pretty all dressed :p up and there is no stove as pretty as the XL in my opinion! :cool::) With maybe the Ideal steel hybrid stoves as the exception! :whistle:
     
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  14. Jeffrey Svoboda

    Jeffrey Svoboda

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    What is the procedure for replacing the hinge pins. Ive got a Schrader stove that needs new pins and holes. Just wondering how it is usually done. Thanks
     
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  15. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    The hinge pins on a Fisher pull straight out/up. They may need something like WD-40 or such. I'm assuming the Schrader is similar, I'm also assuming they are either 1/4 or 3/8 inch, you can find them on eBay usually. If you cannot get them there, check Woodmans. They have many varieties. And if you really get stuck, use your standard mild steel bolt. As far as your holes, if they are really bad and elongated try to drill them to the next size bigger, "drill very slow" on cast and use some oil. You best bet is do it in place if you can so you drill the door and the hinge tab at the same time. That would be best to keep your door alignment. Good luck! :)
     
  16. Jeffrey Svoboda

    Jeffrey Svoboda

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    Thank you so much. Kinda what I figured. Maybe some heat from a torch might help free them up?
     
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  17. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    If your heating the doors and it's cast, "go slow"... If you have a heat gun that will hit 1200* thats a better idea. I would soak them myself and try to work them slow with some vise grips a little at a time.
     
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  18. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    I've got a knock off and looking at these pics kinda makes me feel bad for getting the nc30! Well, at least until I light it anyway....

    Its not like I would have saved the 500-just would've been spent on something else, right? :cool:
     
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  19. Coaly

    Coaly

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    Once free, keeping them lubricated with high temp grease or silver anti-seize will allow them to be removed by hand.
    When stuck, let soak with penetrating fluid of choice and rotate the pins to loosen. Once they turn, that allows penetrant to loosen them more before tapping them out.
    If you have to drill for oversize pins, NO OIL drilling cast iron. Machine dry or use water or kerosene only. Same as tapping or cutting threads. I know Dave is a professional welder, but machining cast iron does not use oil. Diesel fuel is probably ok, but working on steam locomotives and machining lots of cast iron, "Diesel" was always a bad word. Kerosene or "Coal Oil" was the term.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2016
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  20. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Grandma got her first light off today. The weather stayed a nice 65* and light breeze so I opened all the windows and got every fan I owned out and lit her off! As expected the new paint smoked a bit and I ran her most of the day around 400* and hit about 525* once. The paint is set now:) and everything performed as expected, I believe she is ready for the for the winter. :cool: The draft with the new pipe and the chimney clean as a whistle, I didn't get ounce of smoke or back draft, It sucked like a Hoover :p.
     

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    Last edited: Sep 24, 2016
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