If you really want to increase the performance on that saw then open the exhaust to about twice the size it is right now. Even with the spark arrester in, it will make a difference.
Well I have a dremel with a oval shaped burr that I use to open those up with. Just take your time and make sure it is not mounted to the saw and then blow it out real good with compressed air when done. The burr I got off of ebay. We are talking sheet metal that you will be working on.
The muffler is off the saw now so this would be the time to do it. Do you mean a cone shaped burr like in the attached? And just bore out the existing holes?
Does your muffler have four tic-tac holes in the front or two? If you already have four, you can drill a 5/16"-3/8" hole in the dimple and focus on enlarging the opening in the deflector as it is the biggest restriction. If you have two, just make two more ovals on the opposite side of the dimple and drill your hole in the dimple. Then the deflector work. The dimpled area is inside of the internal baffle, while the narrow border around it where the oval holes are is outside of it. Holes made inside the dimpled area will make a big difference in both power and noise. You will definitely need to re-tune the carb after all this.
I would put new rings on. clean the piston ring slots up well so the rings seat fully. get new fuel line w a filter run check coil for good spark and clean /check carb.
Measure the compression when the saw is cold and when the saw is hot , if the diference of theese numbers is small dont need to change piston- cylinder then go to your stupid dealer a for diagnose a problem you must have tools , most of dealers make diagnose smelling the air or look in the crystal ball like magicians , then they say is this and if its not this but that, they tell you ........... ooohhh you do something wrong after we repair it now is this and the story continue until you change the 80% of the parts then the saw will work fine
Might want to check spark also if the problem persists. Heat is the enemy of electrical components and as they get older the more heat effects them.
Parts have arrived so time to reassemble. I found a clip like thing that I have no recollection of removing. Photos attached. Anyone know what this is and where it goes? Thanks again
reassembled the saw with replacement parts (new carb, fuel line/filter, oil line/filter, rings, seals, intake manifold, spark plug) and did my best at adjusting the carb but it does the same thing. Starts up fine and runs fine (took down a small oak and removed the brush. I shut it down for a few minutes to remove the brush and it wouldn't restart. Any more suggestions?
I would say you need to take some tools with you when using it for cutting. 1. Pull the spark plug and see if it is flooding or dry. If dry try priming it with mix through the carb. 2. If you have a compression tester then when you pull the plug to check it do a compression test also. 3. Check the spark by removing the cylinder cover and when you have the plug out set it sideways on top of the cylinder and connect it to the plug wire to see if you can see some spark. When ever I run into a problem like this I always remind myself it is not magic and there has to be a logical explanation even though we have not found it yet. Go back to basics. Spark Fuel Compression. If you have those three it should fire.
This sounds like a coil issue that doesn't show up until it's hot. They get dodgy like that sometimes. I'd test the spark with the saw hot/when it's acting up. Spark should be bright blue and not white or weak looking.
Update- I didn't realize the gap between the flywheel and coil was adjustable. It was quite wide when I checked so I adjusted it to spec. I finally had a chance to run it for a few hours today and it ran like a champ. No problems restarting. Thanks again!:stacke:
Agree with fuel line, had that happen on an old 044 once. Small crack in the line caused tons of headaches