Husky 465 rancher becomes Makita 6421

From a dummy asking; what issues would one look for between oem and aftermarket in the long term? How much of a quality difference is there? and is it worth the $ to stay with oem?

 

Oem vs AM is a huge debate. In my opinion the cheap after market stuff needs to be throwed in a ditch. But your better AM such as cross,meteor, tecomec are for the most part just as good quality as oem. But a saw will never have as good of value for resale with AM. Now all that said in the case of the baileys BB. A stock 7900 and the BB run really close together. Some give the edge to the BB. When ported though the oem top ends run much harder. A lot of that in my opinion is due to the BB kit just being to big for the case volume of the saw. It all falls to opinion. In the OP case I will cut him a deal on the top end. As the saw will be ported when I'm done. Hope this is helpful.

 

Better written and more eloquent than I could have put it.

 

Thank you! In the case of this BB cylinder if it didn't sell. It's no biggy as I will buy me another 665 solo sometime and I will use it to test my theory. Lol. The 665 with the 1mm longer stroke has a little bit more case capacity than the 7900. May work. May not. Won't be the first cylinder my experiments have went south on. Lol

 

As Gunter of Geugenheim said the 665 is a "factory rod of hot"

And the 044 was back when men were men!

 

Op I wanna add one more thing. If and when you do the cylinder swap. I would highly recommend having a torch on hand. Whatever top end you put one there needs to breath. Split the muffler. Take all the junk out and open up the whole under the factory defector. There again this is all my opinion. Cat mufflers suck. Lol

 

And if this is beyond your ability or comfort level I'm sure we could find someone here to mod one for you. And a muffle mails easy priority mail.

 

The muffle mod alone you will seriously notice a difference if that's all you do to it.

 

I was just thinking about this awhile ago, I have never done a muffler mod, so, you just heat up the edge take a screwdriver bend it out as you go , do what you need to do, put it back together and peen it??

 

What ever you can. That metal is so thin. Pliars. Then screw driver and mallet? Solder the edges or weld.

 

You say solder so brazing should be good right? I'm pretty good at that

 

Yep that works too. Heck you could JB weld it if you wanted. Just something to keep it sealed up. And from leaking

 

I just heat them up. Uncrimp them with a screw driver. Then gut. The reheat tap them edge back around with a hammer and recrimp with pliers.

 

JB weld no good on exhaust temps, don't ask me how I know

 

Really? I thought they claimed it would work on manifolds and such?

 

Everything is the same but the color.

 

I watched a long youtube video of a guy modding a 6421 in his garage, it was in two parts.
anyone know him? is he a FHC guy? He mentioned Mastermind when he was talking to the camera.

I got the feeling he was in california but I can't be sure

chainsaws and generators is his youtube name

 

The only tough part I've found with most stainless steel mufflers is getting the crimp lifted at first because it isn't as soft as regular steel.

The 6421 is nice because if you start at the top hole you can work a small flat blade screwdriver under there pretty easy. I also found that if you heat small sections at a time and work the crimp open it worked better than heating larger sections and working the crimp open. Maybe a half inch at a time. Pretty easy it just takes a little time and patience.

 

Forgot to mention that once I got the crimp worked open I switched to needlenose pliers. Also you shouldn't have to go all the way around before you can work the two halves apart.