Do I need a PP5020AV?

Ok so, eventually sounds like I will have to replace the fuel lines, so what is a good stuff and where is a good place to get it.

 

IME, no rush there. Mine are still original, after 4 yrs exposure to E10. On mine, the line in the tank softened & swelled some at the filter, letting the filter fall off. (Just another reason to clean the tank regularly!) I snipped 1/4" off the end & pushed the filter back in. Still there and working fine. Mine happens to have the greenish lines, the ones tinted like Tygon ones. Quite different from the ones I've seen on green-Poulans.
So, "eventually" may mean "within 5-10 years". Lets hope so.

 

Mine had yellow-green lines. They swelled and pinched, stopping the fuel flow completely. I have no idea what is "good" line, I bought some from Ace Hardware, and it didn't work (leaked past the hole in the tank). I bought some other from eBay, and has worked well. I have no idea if either one of them is good, but that was what worked for me.

Greg

 

Well that sounds good.
Went back looking through the thread on AS, so many pages got to get through all the gibberish to get to the facts.
So I guess the main issues are carb coming loose, filter fit, and a goofy chain.
Might need a tune when I get it, don't know what the high speed RPM is supposed to be?

 

Just fix the air filter issue and run it. I wouldn't do anything else (new lines, tuning) until it is clearly needed. When you buy a new chain, just upgrade it, the chain it comes with cuts fine.

 

Yeah I here ya, I don't plan on fixing what ain't broke, but we will see how it runs I don't want it running lean

 

I bought mine at lowes off the shelf and couldnt be happier with it. I cut about 4 or 5 cords with stock bar and chain. Bought aftermarket bar and full chisel chain. Made a big difference. Purchased the carb adjustment tool and richened it up about 1/8 turn and it really came alive. To date have cut about 15 cords. Good saw for the money. Maybe I got lucky and got a good one. It always starts hot or cold. I would buy another one.

 

I think most people are happy with them, lot of bang for the buck.
Already have the spline tools, I may try the bar and chain off my 55 on there, its the same length but 72dl

 

I grabbed this one one off the bay on the cheap, needed a fuel line which took all but five minutes to install, had it running right after installing it, still have some bugs to work out on it and I'm sure an MM will be in order...............also wanted to mention that a Homey super EZ bar will also work with just some light grinding on the adjuster pin, I had a few of these bars laying around and will work out great on this saw, a before pic, and an after pic with just a light cleaning, quite sure the saw had seen little use, the sprocket still looked new!........

 

Dunno what you mean by "goofy chain". Yes, the OEM chain is one of those "vanguard" chains, with the dog-eared depth-gauges. My OEM chain is still in the "rotation" of chains I run on mine. Still works fine. Dunno why folks get their panties in a knot about it- sharpen it, set the depth-gauges' height properly, and RUN IT.
This saw runs for a LONG time on a tankful. Chain sharpness is temporary. Sooo, I touch up the cutters at least each second fillup, cutting clean wood, using precision Granberg guide. As recommended, I run mine on 40:1 (Baileys') full-syn. No hint of a prob.

I'd NEVER adjust high-speed mixture by tach. That's a serious kludge, to simplify things for dealer mechanics, IMO. Get a "Husqy carb tool" and adjust it for clean 2-stroking under load, with transition to 4-stroking when you lift. Waaaay better than can be done with tach.
Then you might check what the WOT revs are, so you can justify buying the tach. When weather changes, it's easy to check our in the woods if the carb's adjusted okay, by ear, listening for 4-stroking transition. Short of Auto-Tune, that's as good as it gets. Being a strato engine, it seems cold-blooded to some, so check mixture only when warmed up. Mine was really close out of the box.

 

Yeah I'm talking about the Vanguard chain, not a big deal to me though, I will run it, keep it sharp, I might put a different bar and chain on it later but I'm not in hurry to do that .
Already have a tac and splined carb tools.
Even if I do use the tac to check things out my final adjustments are always done getting into the wood.


Here it is, showed up yesterday

 

It may say refurbed, but that looks new. Scrench, too! I'm tempted to buy one...don't need it but that never stopped me before.

 

I
$116 is a really good price, when they're gone they're gone.
They say shipping is fast and free and it is fast
Poulan Pro PP5020AV 20" 50cc 2 Cycle Gas Powered ChainSaw Home/Tree Chain saw

 

Scrench goes in here

 

Don't leave it there...mine fell out when I was cutting in a 3' tall hay field, couldn't find it for nothing...the following weekend I dropped the next tree down the fence row and then I used my truck to pull the tree 50' across the hay to bare ground...when I was cleaning up small broken branches...there it was, laying right on top of the flattened hay. Apparently one of the tree branches caught it and brought it to the top!

 

Ha ha that was pretty lucky
I was wondering whether or not it would stay in there good or not.
I have a pouch I carry screnchs and files around in, like 10 by 6" I guess, zips up

 

Mine stays fine. Nice saw!

 

Thanks

 

What's up with this extra metal piece here? , is it supposed to be on here, it doesn't look like it should? it was sitting on top of the plastic shipping spacer.
Or does it go on top of the bar?

Edit, okay I put it on top of the bar looks like that's where it goes but, is it needed



plastic spacer and metal piece taken off

 

Yep, it goes on top of the bar. I think it is a chain guide.