Tell me please why you use this notch system and the system with the wedge what you want to control or what to avoid , i think that if the tree is straight up without to have other problems a face cut and a back cut will finish the job also you use and cable for more control so why so much complex methods
Well said. Giving a hand to those that need it is what should make for a better world. Too bad not everybody thinks this way.
It just gives you another option when a cable/rope is not really needed. I don't use it that often. The tenon will hold the direction to a point but you do run the risk of a side popper if it has too much lean. Sometimes in the woods it honestly doesn't matter which way it falls, it's just better if you can get it somewhere that makes it easier to work up. Kind of have a hard time following your question on the other "notch system"
I believe the intent of using this technique is when relatively small trees are being cut. The wedge won't generate enough lift due to bottoming out on the hinge. The slot cut in the face allows the wedge to be driven in farther without obstruction. Making a bore cut through the face is not complex and can be accomplished in seconds in a small tree like that.
Exactly. The risk is there is no hinge left essentially once the wedge pops the tenon loose. I always wondered, and I need to try, if you leave a small amount of wood on the lateral cuts right near the face cut if it would still work. that would probably be much safer as it would cut down the risk of a side pop. Maybe next time.
Thanks for the pics of your kickin' ash there Kevin in Ohio... we have a lot of ash here too... nice to work with.
My only criticism of your technique is that you cut through the hinge on either side of your wedge. That severely reduces the amount of control you have from side weight or wind influence. Leave the hinge and it's a much safer method. The method works pretty well on smaller trees that have a slight back lean and would benefit from being wedged over.
That's exactly what I was thinking about trying to do in the post above. Should have known somebody was allready doing it. Still, I wouldn't do it on a leaner as it wouldn't take much to pop that out on the deep side of the wedge cut.
Yes ALWAYS , ALWAYS ALWAYS leave a hinge even a small , the job of the hinge is not to control the tree fall where the face cut is, the hinge keep the tree falling left or right and avoid bad situations.
For me if you do this technique without someone pro faller tell it to you , you are a PRO Hat off to you
Now lets tell the crazy method 1 start the back cut and stop when the hinge will start 2 put a wedge to the back cut 3 start the face cut first the down cut and then the angle cut 4 hit the wedge until the tree fall God bless you Dont try this at home
Job well done Kevin! And kudos to you for lending a helping hand. Dad and I use cables/ropes quite often if needed.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgRtpDuvaA8 www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3pvIh-fSKc /www.youtube.com/watch?v=qz8jG1p63NA
Here at my place it's really handy...... This thing makes anything up high easy. I've found that 16- 20 ft is normally enough. We are just using an extension ladder and I carry up a short 5/16 and cable when I climb. dad steadies the ladder. I hook the cable on the top of the ladder till I bear hug the chain on, then hook it in. You have to remember the advantage of pull you have from that height. The higher the better naturally but it becomes a danger thing of putting up a ladder too high. Never had a problem at 16 - 20 ft.
