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Newby questions about venting

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by bushpilot, Oct 17, 2015.

  1. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    My woodstove sits in the corner of my living room, which has a vaulted ceiling. Above the woodstove, the ceiling is about 9 feet high, in the center of the room it is about 12-13 feet (haven't measured). Currently the stove vents straight up through the ceiling and roof, and there is about 6 feet of chmney above the roof.

    Every bit of that is up for grabs when I install the 30-NC in the spring. I can easily place the stove more towards the center of the room (the peak of the ceiling), or I can leave where it is. I can go up through the ceiling, or I can vent through the wall on the low side. Whatever is done will be done with all new supervent components, nothing will be salvaged of what I have.

    So - what would you do? Matching the current install configuration is simplest, but while I am doing it, I would rather go for "long term easy" rather than short term gratification. So here are the three thoughts, listed in assumed order of simplest to most difficult.

    1. Leave where is, vent through ceiling. The only issue I see is that it is a little hard to clean the chimney because if its required height above the roof.
    2. Move to center, longer stovepipe in house, shorter chimney outside. I believe this will give me a little more heat in the house (off the stovepipe), and it certainly would give me a shorter chimney for easier cleaning.
    3. Leave where is, vent through wall. No idea of advantages or disadvantages. I am sre it will cost more, and I cannot think of any advantages, but there might be something. I can't imagine how I would get up there to clean the chimney (it would be on the low side of the roof, and would stick up at 7-8 feet above the roof in oder to get the 15 foot min height), but am wondering if one can clean from the bottom? This idea seems crazy, but then again I am a newby at installs. How is the horizontal secction cleaned, and the short vertical stovepipe before the bend?
    I am favoring option #2 for reasons stated, what would you do and why? Thanks in advance!

    Greg
     
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  2. KaptJaq

    KaptJaq

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    Some pictures would be nice to get a better idea of layouts. I like the idea of moving to the center of the room. Cleaning up from the stove is not that bad, just takes a little set-up time so the dust is contained.

    Good luck with the new install,
    KaptJaq
     
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  3. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    agree because (non technical)
    Pipe at my previous home was chest high to me on the roof. PITA to sweep.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2015
  4. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    I like #2. Easier to clean, no chimney braces on the roof, and less cost.
     
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  5. papadave

    papadave

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    I'd go for door #2.
    The pipe is less expensive if you use single wall, and the amount of pipe outside is less, so the exhaust should stay warmer, longer. I used to have icicles (brown ones) hanging from the cap......not so much with the 30 setup.
    You'll maybe have to experiment a little to see if the suggested 15' minimum is sufficient. It wasn't here, and I still have a little smoke rollout even at 16'.
    I've been thinking of getting a Sooteater, to clean from inside, but it's not a huge deal to get to the cap outside......yet.:BrianK:
     
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  6. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    Oops, I forgot about the OAK. Option #2 would not put the stove on an outside wall. To get outside air, I would have to go in the wall, then 8 feet up into the attic of the room adjacent, then 12 feet to an outside wall. That is 20 ft of vent, 2 90 degree elbows, and the opening would be about 9 feet above the ground.

    If I "oversize" the venting in the wall and attic, would it vent?

    Greg
     
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  7. papadave

    papadave

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    You probably don't really "need" an OAK.
     
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  8. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    True, but it is required in WA state.

    Greg
     
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  9. papadave

    papadave

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    Ahhh.
    Well then, I guess you do need one.:)
    Now, back to your options.......
     
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  10. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    I saw a mention somewhere about stovepipe that also serves as an outside air source. I cannot find details as to who sells it, the cost, etc. anyone know anything of that?

    Greg
     
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  11. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    Thimble with OAK?
     
  12. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    The plot thickens - WA code requires ...

    A source from outside the structure of primary combustion air, connected to the appliance as per manufacturer's specification. The air inlet shall originate at a point below the fire box. The duct shall be 4 inches or greater in diameter, not exceed 20 feet in length, and be installed as per manufacturer's instructions ...
    So, I cannot have an air inlet above the firebox, which eliminates several creative solutions I was considering. The 4 inch duct is interesting, as the outlet on the firebox is 3 inches, if I am not mistaken (I have not looked to verify).

    Still pondering ...

    Greg
     
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  13. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    I tried to take some pictures, but they were not clear enough to clarify anything.

    Greg
     
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  14. papadave

    papadave

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    My Class A is about 7' out the peak. When I clean, I remove the 3' top section and cap as one.
    Can I presume the existing placement is on an outside wall? If so, there's the best solution to the OAK requirement.
    If you wanted to clean from the bottom in that scenario, just pull the stove pipe, and use a Sooteater from the bottom.
     
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  15. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    I contacted Englander about my crazy venting thoughts, they were not too keen on them. :faint:

    Greg

    Edit - this means the combustion air, I did not ask them anything about the exhaust.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2015
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  16. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    Supervent, Duravent, or other? How difficult is it to separate sections? Any chance of breaking them or wearing out the attachments by repeatedly separating them?

    Greg
     
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  17. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    Greg, those words, "As per manufacturer's specification." Ah, that could very well be an out for you if the manufacturer does not require it, then you should not need it.
     
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  18. papadave

    papadave

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    Supervent. They twistlock, and don't always like to come apart easily.
    I've had this setup since 2009, I think, and no problem with wear. If you bend the connection in some way, you might have a problem.
     
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  19. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    Yeah, but the kit does exist for the stove, made by the manufacturer.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2015
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  20. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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