Just had a couple cord of wood delivered to my work. Tossed it in a somewhat empty 40' shipping container to get it out of the way. This was processed in Nov.14. My question is can I stack this jenga style and let it bake it the container through September? It gets full sun all day and gets really hot (keep some of my landscape equipment in there). Going to blow a couple of holes near the top so it can vent and open the door each day. Will this do more harm than good? Going to buy a couple cord of kiln dried wood for 2015/2016 not sure if I would need it later in the season. Just checking!
The key is going to be getting the moisture out of the container. If you leave one or both ends open it would work well
I have heard of the shipping containers being used as 'kilns' (of sort). A dark colored paint on the outside of the container and it being placed in full sun may get you some good results. Air circulation would be important, venting below and an exit above would be good.
Ok, I might be able to do the whirlybird. We do store aluminum extrusions on the top so I need to check on that. I could put a fan it the door and run it during work hours. Once it warms up a bit I will get into working on the ventilation. Definitely interested in the results.
IMHO I think pulling air out will work better than pushing air in. If you have power near by, a powered exhaust fan (like a gable end fan) mounted high on the end opposite the doors might work better for you. It wouldn't interfere with roof storage. Maybe run it on a switch or timer for when the doors are open. It will still vent heat and moisture through the louvers even if it's not running. Cracking the doors or installing a passive vent grating low and near the door end will help in exhausting the seacan with little or no effort.
There are a few threads on this in the forum. Also a company makes kits for venting containers and turning into a kiln.
Check out the posts by Uncle Augie in this thread He solar kiln dries his wood He is saying that retaining as much heat as possible is better for drying than venting the moisture out I know he's not using a sea can but the method would be the same http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/threads/seasoning-times.8825/#post-217546
My take on venting is; the heat you collect is what is going to accelerate the drying process, not some sheetmetal whirlygig spinning on top of the thing. I would figure out exactly how much replacement air I need and use a fan to do it. When you reach the latter stages of drying you really need little air exchange, the heat is what counts don't waste it. As for running a passive kiln, you'd probably get the same results letting your wood drop its easy water before putting it in a container.
From what I've read I agree with Paul, keep heat but work on getting rid of water. The simple ones I saw just had holes in the bottom to let the water run out after it collected on the walls. Water collected and then ran out during the night.
I agree with ^. Water comes out a lot easier than it goes back in. Let the humidity build up during the day until the partial pressure equalized. After dark when the air is still hot and the walls cool below the dew point it will condense and run down and out if there is drainage. Cycle repeats again the next day.
hamsey , Have you read this thread? http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/for...ner-drying-kiln-claims-6-day-seasoning.10410/ If I could afford a full set up, turnkey, I'd be on it like white on rice, or snow if you will! Paul bunion is right, it's more about heat than air movement... If it were me with your current container, I'd figure out a way to slope the interior ceiling of the sea can, tarp or heavy mil plastic or such, so moisture could run towards the wall and then down the side wall- let gravity bring it down, a couple of drainage/ weep holes at the deck level. If you decided to exchange the air, you'll be flushing heat out too. Unless your exhaust opening is significantly lower than the roof height- you might be able to stratify the heat/ flush out the moisture laden air with a lower exhaust opening. Close that off at some point during the exchange, and bank on what heat you've left aloft. At that point, tho, an insulated ceiling may prove better than allowing heat to radiate from the roof of the thing. Either way, put up some pics- this thread is a great read, but why leave so many to just their imaginations?! Keep at it! Eric VW
Weep holes sound much easier. Will get some pics when things get going. Thanks everyone for the info. Cannot wait to see what the MC is in September. Wood was c/s in November and sat in a pile. Just got delivery of it in mid February and in it went to get it out of the elements. As far as easy water well the ice and snow melted off the one above freezing day we had. Need to see where it drained out. I know it is not perfectly level.
Definitely need to get get it off the floor. Will get it stacked better once the snow melts. Although that could be August the way things are going. If this works it will help me getting on the 3 year plan. Only two cord in there now but next time I will shoot for four. Still going to get two cord of kiln dried and add that to the one cord kiln dried I have now to make sure I have enough for 15/16. First year burning 24/7 so no clue how much wood we need. Figuring 3 to 4 cord.
Heating around 2000 sq/ft. Just had the Heritage installed 2/25/2015 and did the break in fires. Going to give it a go this weekend. Getting short on wood though so will keep temps a couple of degrees above the furnace temp. I believe it is a 48 ft sea can. Currently there are other things in it besides the wood. Mostly landscape implements.
