A couple of new guy questions I see people bucking logs on a nice high set of sawhorses. Looks like a great setup for bucking cuts. But how do you get the log up there? Unless there is a great trick it seems like I'd spend 2 hours lifting logs for every 20 minutes of cutting. I'm considering a load of logs and debating where to have them dropped. There is a convenient location behind where we park the trailers but the grass is soft and gets a bit wet when it rains a lot. Is the log load going to tear things up and make a mess? David
Some guys use sawbucks to get stuff up off the ground. If you have an easy way to get the log up there it is nice. If not it is more trouble than its worth. There are no tricks....brute force....equipment...crane...hehelicopter. ...?...whatever you got. A triaxle will gross well over 50,000 lbs when loaded with wood. It will make a mess....if the driver is even willing to drive back there loaded.
Saw bucks are generally used for smaller stuff that's easy to lift and cut on there A log load will year things up. I get small Isuzu dumptruck loads of logs and even that little bit digs up and ruts the ground where it's dumped. Lukem makes a good point too, if a driver sees soggy soft ground, they may not be willing to drive back there. Getting a tri axle stuck is no fun
The ground I'm thinking of is right next to the gravel driveway. Driver could pull up alongside then unload onto the grass. I have a tractor that can lift 1000# at the bucket but I expect many logs are heavier than that.
Welcome Have him lay 3 or 4 logs down 90° ,then stack the rest on top Keeps most of the logs off the ground & will help you when cutting.
Dunno how it would work out for you for log loads, but here's what I do and it works for me. I get all my wood from fallen trees in my woods, so I haul it out on this trailer. If I can pull right up to the pile, ill load everything up in large pieces and saw it up on the sawbuck back at the house. Once it's on the trailer, I can easily slide them onto the sawbuck. I designed mine to be the same height.
I would do it. If truck stays on drive and unloads on grass the logs will spread the load and i doubt sink much into the ground. Next youll have to figure out how long a log you can pic with the tractor safely. You can cut the logs in the pile then move them to the sawbuck.
Logs stacked on a few stringer logs, as bogydave has suggested, is a good plan imo. The logs can move on ya as you release the weight while bucking.
Processing a log load will make a big mess. No doubt about that. It will destroy your lawn if you process it there. I get mine laid out on stringers parallel to my driveway then roll them out onto blocks on the driveway with a peavey and cut there. Cut till it is about to pinch then roll and finish all the cuts. Cleanup on pavement is much easier. The lawn just gets a few dents and divots. It's not all torn up. I also get the logs laid out flat as possible so it is rather easy to pic apart with a peavey and pry bar. A load from a while back, stringers and 6x6's to cut on.
I cut the whole logs on the ground. Cut 3/4 of the way through ( do not let the bar & chain touch the dirt), roll the log 180 degrees and finish each cut. OK, so one knee of the chaps gets dirty but clean chaps are just wrong. Sawhorse is for light small diameter logs. IMHO. Welcome to the FHC, David.
Same here, when I had the log loads. Rolled 'em down off the stack (tried for approximately 20 at a time, which closely came to 1/3 cord and one tank of fuel), cut part way through, then roll to finish cut. Previous owner had an area on the other side of the drive where he cut, and it must have had several layers of chips built up. Kinda' spongy to walk on, and about 100' from any "lawn". That's right where I've had the loads dropped. No peavy, or cant hook, or spud......just me giving the logs a shove from the opposite direction and down they went....away from me. Nothing over about 14-16", so not hard to do.
Now that I think about it, I have a bunch of pressure-treated fence posts that I can lay down. I don't see an issue with cutting on the ground and rolling them over to finish. The grass here grows thick and strong and is not in an important place. I don't care if/when it grows back, but I'm sure that it will. Reading up on some older discussions around here, I should consider a peavey or canthook for safer handling. I have talents but being strong and burly is not one of them. David
I'm no longer as strong and burly as I once at least thought I may have been. If you need to use a Peavey or cant hook, do it, but leverage and what little muscle I have left got me through it.
If you are going to go with a log load you "Need" a cant hook (or peavey) pinch points, leverage & ease of moving the logs.
This is how we do er' up here. As BD said, have the driver lay a half dozen or so on the 90 and stack on them.
Welcome to the forum David. Sawbucks are very handy but only for cutting the small stuff. Also, if using a sawbuck, it is still best to have two people; one running the saw and one for the logs. There certainly is no sense in lifting a huge log only to perhaps cause some injury. Getting a log load is nice because it cuts the time needed to buck up the logs because of no brush to handle. Contrary to some, I do not believe it is dangerous getting the logs down to cut so long as one is careful. But, if one wants to stand in front of the log as it is coming down.... Here are some tools that will make your work much, much easier. Of course, you realize the saw comes first. lol I always prefer a cant hook over a peavey. I also prefer a cant hook with a wooden handle and also a short handle. Unless one is rolling a 10' log that is 48" diameter, a 3' or 4' handle is all that is needed. Also, you can do so much more with a cant hook than with a peavey. You can get along okay without a pickeroon or hookeroon but they can be very, very handy and save lots of work. The log tongs I now say are a must! In fact, I put them ahead of the cant hook! They are amazing for saving work, save wear and tear on gloves and save much wear and tear on the back. I like the crayons for marking the length of the logs. For example we use 16" logs in our stove so I have a 4' stick marked every 16". I lay the stick on the log and just draw a mark with the crayon. It takes very little time to mark and then you know you have cut the right length.
