2014 VC Owners discussion thread...

Most stove shops around here have hourly rates in the $50 to $100 per hour range and they include travel time. The thing that surprises me is how many people are willing to pay them. It is not "rocket science" but when people think about fire & CO in their homes they are willing to pay a professional to do the job right. While many of the professionals are experienced pros, some are seasonal workers with little experience. I've fixed a number of "professional" installs.

KaptJaq

 

I had to clean the chimney connected to the Defiant three times last year. The Encore's pipe was nearly blocked up at the base of the liner where the Encore connects, and that was cleaned late fall so it wasn't even a full burning season.

The 30 went two winters without a chimney cleaning and all I got was a coffee can of soot.

All three stoves use the same wood. But the VC stoves are a lot dirtier. I can have a glowing cat with a 650 degree stove top and still have smoke coming from the chimney.

I am using ceramic cats. I have swapped out cats. I have verifued that the combustion chambers are in good shape.

The VC stoves are dirty burners.

 

And, to be clear, the two additional times I cleaned out the Defiant last year was not precautionary. It was an absolute need. At the end of December I pulled the double wall to look at the liner and it was nearly blocked. Did the same thing in late February. And when I cleaned the pipe this fall, there was, again, a ton of crap that needed to be cleaned out.

 

Well got mine back together and I gave up on the complete rebuild thread due to technical difficulties 3 small curing fires for the furnace cement up to about 400 and on the third near the end of the burn I heard some cement sizzling in the back..... hoping that its nothing

 

Almost a month in after my complete tear down of the 2550 and I must say, for me, it was worth it. Today I closed off the secondary air with tin foil (as I have in years past) and also stuffed gasket into the epa holes and what a difference for my situation! (My house has crazy draft) Right after rebuild until last night I would cruise 1450-1500 which is too boarderline for me. Today I'm 3 fires in and the control I have is awesome I can dial in the cat/griddle temp depending if I want heat or long burns( cat temps anywhere from 1150-1450 and back down if need be). It may not work for everyone but it's worth a try if you don't have precise control over your stove.
Stay warm!!

 

Glad to hear you are having success. I had another scare last night (see the BS thread) with a near runaway due to debris holding the primary air door open. I managed to get it shut but have a nice welt on my hand for my trouble.

Have to let it go cold now to get back there and clean it out... Id like to know whats getting in there as this is twice in two years and it makes me nervous.

 

That's great news! Glad it's working well for you !

 

There really isn't anything down there...... Have you pulled the whole primary air assembly? What kind of debris?

 

FWIW, I had found the gasket between the primary air frame and stove body was mis-shaped (or misaligned), causing the edge of the gasket to interfere with the hinges of the cast iron shutter. It would make the gravity-closed shutter hang open sometimes. I nibbled away the offending part of the gasket. Also, the rigid wire arm that connects between the bimetallic primary air coil and the control cable can get loose. The cheapo rivet (which attaches the rigid wire to the end of the bimetallic coil) loosens and the rigid wire can rub against the right air plate or outer body. If it rubs, that interferes with the smooth opening/closing of the gravity shutter for hotter/cooler bimetallic movements.

 

Loaded 4 Scotty squares about 30min ago and turned the air down to 1/4 @ 1150 ct and now I'm cruising @ 1350 with little visible flame

 

This was the offender - a 3/8" chunk of old furnace cement.



I felt around in there with my finger, still a lot of dirt/junk back there that I guess I did not get all cleaned out from the rebuild.


Reckless-
When I did my rebuild I didn't take the primary air frame off since the mechanism was in good working order and well adjusted. How hard is it to get back together and adjusted if I pull it now? I really down want to take the inside of the stove apart right now and I would be working pretty much blind back there since Im also not in the mood to pull the stove out of the fireplace mid winter.

Maybe I can just use the tiny hose attachment for the shop vac and fish it in there.........

 

Easy brother. Just those 2 screws and you should have enough slack from the primary wire to get it out. My paper gasket wasn't in great shape but good enough to keep a seal. Another idea would be to remove 1 or both inner walls and go down from that way as long as you have good attachments for the shop vac (I recommend the left wall).

On second thought you could take out both walls remove the primary handle and then take off the frame. Adjustments are fairly easy just make sure to put the frame back on then the handle making sure it's working and holding (You have to really push on it from the inside when putting on the handle to activate the tension spring) then the wall. An hour job tops.

 

Ok, sounds like its not a big deal, thanks... just didn't want to have to make the mess of cleaning it out and pulling the fire backs to be able to get the sidewalls out.

But this one is definitely worth dong right, cant risk another runaway.


Monday I'll call the VC dealer in town to see if I can get that gasket locally. Ive got 2 weeks off starting ext weekend so ill have tie to do it.

 

The paper gasket? I would just grab it from the local auto parts place honestly if you go that route. In reality if you have a flexible attachment that's about a foot long you could just pull the walls and get the rest through the door with it in the full open position, but I would say you could get 90-100% with the right attachment through the walls alone. I know your space is limited like mine lol good luck!

Side note the airways into the base have no nooks or craneys and lead directly too the door. I can post a pic if you are wondering when I get home later.

 

Jeremy here is the pic, hope it helps.

 

Just a friendly reminder to all you 2550 burners.... check your glass screws and your lower fireback wedges (mine were a little loose) Happy burning everyone!!

 

Reporting in. The VC's are still backpuffing on me. Nothing major and correctable. Still annoying.

The smoke and build up is unavoidable, it seems. They heat the area, the burn times are okay. I am just thankful I didn't pay full price for them. For $300-400 They are great stoves with issues that can be worked with. At $2,500-3,000? I'd be mighty upset with the product.

Currently 6 degrees here.

 

Looks like I'll have a short break from wood burning. Just finished loading the Montpelier for the night and went to turn down the primary air. The control rod hit the end stop then came off in my hand. At least the stove is full and the air is at my normal overnight setting. In the morning I'll turn up the downstairs stove, let the insert cool a little, and change the rod. Looks like a simple fix but I've been decieved before.

The wife said something about pushing up the thermostat on the boiler. If I could be so easily persuaded to fire up the boilier I would not deserve membership with the guys & gals here.

KaptJaq