Question about stacking wood: single deep versus more, covering

I'm a newbie wood burner and I'm now trying to figure out a permanent solution for my wood storage.

First and easiest question: I should only cover the top of the wood with a tarp. There should be no concern with the wood getting wetter because of the exposed ends. Correct?

In looking at a lot of the threads dealing with stacking woods, I usually see single row deep. Is there a reason not to go two or three deep with seasoned wood? Is there a minimum spacing between rows?

 

Yes, top cover only

With seasoned wood, you can stack it in as tight and deep as you want

With green wood that you want to season, how many rows you stack in has everything to do with the space you have and the time you have for the wood to season. Double or triple rows won't have a big effect on seasoning time if the stacks get adequate sun and wind. A big cube like many here use is best when you're years ahead on wood and have time to make sure the center is dry

I don't have space in my yard for long single rows, so I stack two rows to a pallet, and also had some 4 deep stacks with over a foot between them. Did not notice any adverse drying effects

 

One somewhat related question... what would be a preferred minimum distance from a wood structure like a garage wall? My concern is insect activity going from firewood to garage.

 

In the context of the wood getting wet from the exposed ends. If your top cover pours the water down the sides of your stack the wood will soak up a considerable amount of water. A little bit of over hang helps considerably. Some pitch on the top of the stack so the tarps drain helps also. Otherwise mosquito pools form and they have a way of become slow drips into your stack. And nothing sucks worse than getting some wood from under a tarp when there is a puddle up top that pours down on you.

 

Good questions, similar answers from most of the folks so far.

My system consists of racks made of PT 2x4 that are 12' long and 5' high. They are
placed on 4x6 beams near the ground (the beams are on concrete blocks) and the drying racks
are approx 18" apart. this works good for me for the amount of room I have in my yard.
I can dry about 10 cords at a time and when the rows are dry I mark them so I know what
is what.
I top cover each row individually with a piece of clear plastic, just wide enough to cover the ends
to shed the rain water off and away from end grains. This system gives me plenty of air circulation
and sunshine in the early-mid part of the summer.
I don't have room for a shed so I leave the dried wood in place until it gets moved
for stacking on the covered porch in early October. The porch holds about 3.5 cords and will last
me until mid february.

Do what works for you.

 

I like using double rows - can make for a sturdier stack I think. You can make them lean in towards each other slightly so they'll support each other.

The majority of my stacks surround my 20x40' garage on 2 sides. I left an inch or two clearance between the stacks and the building, and made a pitched roof out of vinyl. If you're going to top cover, make sure it will drain properly and there are no "low spots" where rainwater might accumulate and drip down on the wood. I had a couple spots that I had to fix with mine, otherwise I'd be better off not covering the stacks at all!

 

Or having to use a 4 lb. sledge to break apart the splits and stack 'em near the stove before they'll burn.

 

Never done anything but single row, but I've got plenty of room and I did it specifically to get the wood dry more quickly.
Some don't have that luxury.
If I can ever get enough pallets, I'd start doing double rows.

 

I'm gonna be burnin' wood split 6 years ago, stacked on pallets two rows deep, covered on top. Moved a mess of it on to the back porch and it's just as fine of oak, ash, and walnut as it can be.

 

Found a pic from March 14'

 

Got a feeling John... you're gonna avoid a lot of the hassles that can come with storing firewood... like moving the entire woodpile many times because of "issues". This group has been a lot of fun learning new stuff from...

 

I think keeping the wood of the ground is very important for the drying process. Where I live if stack would on the ground it sinks in the ground from freezing and thawing. The bottom rows are the stack are not burnable because they are so wet. Stacking wood on pallets is a good way to stack it. Pallet can be found for free. The design of the pallet let air flow under the stack. When they rot up turn them into kindling. Lately I have put some old conveyor belt under my pallets of wood to keep the moisture that comes out of the ground from going up through my stack. Also when the weather is nice uncover your pile. When there is precipitation in the weather forecast cover it.

 

Fortunately, I've got a few things planned out... but they are going to have to wait for next year

Here is about one cord of my storage currently:


The front posts are six foot tall and the back is at seven foot. It is eight foot long and double stacked. All the wood is up on pier blocks that had the strap embedded.

Excuse the hot tub. In spring it is going to get a new deck. The wood storage shown above will rotate 90 degrees and be between the hot tub and the hill.

I'm going to have something that looks similar for the second cord behind my shed. As you can see in this picture, the house "butts" right against a hill side. From the hill shown to the front of the lot(creek) is about thirty feet total.

Using the picture above, should I pull the tarp upward any? Or is it in a good spot and ready to get fully secured?

 

You've got a good rack set-up. Looks like your roof over hangs a bit? That helps in the back. Any way to get your tarp on top of old pieces of plywood or short boards... to hold the tarp out about 6"-8" in front of all of the splits, so water will drip in front? If possible, slope those plywood pieces a little to the front. Then, weight it down again, like you have now. Single most common complaint I've learned here is to do anything needed to avoid pooling on top and water running off and down on the ends of the stacks.

 

The roof extends about 2 foot from the house.

I could easily buy some plywood to extend the edge out a bit beyond the wood pile.

 

If you did that, it looks as tho you could easily add horiz 2x4s at the tops of your end posts... to attach the plywood to if you wanted... might not even need the tarp then. Mini wood shed...

 

That's almost exactly what my mini shed is. I don't have any good side pics, but you can kind of see the slope here. Taller posts in back, all framed with 2x4s and a metal roof on top of that



John, it wouldn't be hard for you to do something similar with your stack

 

Long term is to have three storage areas like my picture that will try to match the roof but also not be against the house.

My winter goal is to keep my current supply dry by any means. It looks like I should add a piece of plywood to my current setup to better cover the wood but also prevent puddling.

Part of my longer term storage is to blend into the house... the small usable lot makes blending a little more desirable for me.

Super long term may include terracing up the hill for more storage.

 

I stack seasoned wood as tight as I can in the shed/carport
which is top covered only