Catalytic or Non-catalytic?

When we had a couple days of mid 40's, you're correct, I did get almost 40 hours hours of burn. I don't really like to factor that in as an actual burn time. For me, winter heating factors are what I can get out of a stove, 30° and below, 15° and below, and most importantly, 0° and below.

 

My cat was essentially clean, so I just used my ash vacuum and sucked air through it from each side without touching it. I was just shocked it wasn't more dirty after a full year. I ended up having to replace the gasket around it as it completely fell apart when I removed the cat.

 

I would say my 24 hour burns come primarily on days of 30°, nights of 20°. A normal winter day in central Michigan.[/QUOTE]

 

Good to know for future reference!

 

That goes on my "to try" list this winter.

 

Well I have an update. No stove yet and I just realized where Buck stoves are made. North Carolina right in the middle of the hurricane devastation. As of not Buck is closed for business. I will call my dealer later today and see what he has in stock. I may have to go with a different stove.

 

Well somehow the Buck 81 showed up on Monday. Don't worry about the Hearth I'm going to replace that when I get a chance probably in a year or two when I have some spare change. I still need to pipe in in.

Quick reminder 460-lb is a lot.

 

Thought I'd go ahead and report back so far the stove is working really well and it heats the entire house comfortably.

One question. I'm trying not to overheat this particular stove "I know I did with my old one". Where is the best location to place your surface thermometer at. I had it just on top of the stove and near the center when I get it rolling really good I've seen it up to about 500°F to 550°F

Now for whatever reason I placed the thermometer just above the front door and it shot up to almost 800 real quick. Now obviously it's going to be hotter on the front, but should I regulate the temperature based off of the reading from the top of the stove or the front?

Again I'm not new to burning wood, but I am new to not trying to overheat a wood stove and warp or crack it. My old stoves were cheapen almost disposable, this one not so much.

 

I'd think you'd go off the hottest spot, but no idea on that model...

 

On my Buck I have it on the side just under the lip toward the front.

 

Much cooler on that location in my experience. The hottest location I found is right in the center above the door.

I'm letting it burn down right now so I can remove some of the ashes. not

 

Andyshine77
Being a non cat stove I would watch flue temps more than stovetop.

 

Single wall, I haven't seen much over 500 on the pipe itself, it's usually between 300 to 450.

 

500 is quite hot.
I am for ,300 18" above stovetop

 

Well she's hovering around 750 to 800 with the flu closed I either overloaded it or I have an air leak somewhere.

Not the stove pipe, but the actual stove. The stove pipe is around 400 right now.

 

My Drolet 1400i will go 750-800* stovetop on a full load of good dry wood.
You could do the dollar bill test on the door gasket, just to verify.

 

I checked the gasket it looks nice and sealed up. I did add a lot of wood and it was very dry.

Will these stoves still burn like crazy if you overload them with the flu shut down as far as it'll go? It is really cold tonight so there's a hell of a draft.

Sorry to sound like a newbie this this stove is a new thing to me there's apparently a learning curve, more so than I thought anyway. Maybe I'm just too used to throwing a bunch of wood in there and almost forgetting about it.

Hopefully I'm OK. I'll inspect the stove tomorrow afternoon when the cold burn down. I think I'm probably good it's just a little scary when you have a fire going that hot. The entire house "which is 4500 square feet" is like 75° right now, and it's 18° out there.

 

They can...some models turn down better than others...and if you have a real tall chimney, draft may be too high.

Nice!

 

Update.

I made a slight modification to the stove. Something I noticed when I first got the stove, the damper has three main settings. High, medium and low. I have discovered the older 81's had a closed position.

Here is a pic of the opening on the bottom of the stove, this is the maximum of the flu would close. There is a metal stopper plate that is welded to the stove to prevent it from closing fully.

So I took my Dremel with the cutting wheel and trimmed off of that metal plate. It literally took like 2 minutes. It now closes fully. There is still a small open hole on the bottom of the stove to shoot some air onto the front lip of stove. Yes it's there by design, so even with the damper fully closed there will still be some small amount of air getting into the stove. This should make a big difference. I hope.

 

Picture of the damper fully closed. And a picture of what I trimmed off. I believe this was all do to EPA regulations.