Can a stove pipe be too long?

That was meant more in response to a 95*F room. Pass the ice tea jug, please.

 

It’s true but only within reason. It would be great if people didn’t try to turn stove controls down and also employ a damper, as many do…and then they also try burning wood that is wet, pet alone wet and low temp…then they end up creating lots of creosote. If they burned like you, then sure.

I’m convinced most people have too much stove for their homes. I mean, who needs constant 95*F heat? Few.

I’m also convinced a small sized Fisher, Warner, etc., would suit us just fine. I need a top vent though just because I have only so much room on the hearth and the stove has to go back against the wall some. I do have enough room to turn one sideways and still walk up on the hearth to load.

 

One way to monitor draft is to use a manometer. I have read that my stove should run at . 06-.08 my pipe damper helps me maintain that window. The manual doesn't say anything about using a damper. In fact I don't think they had one in mind because the stove has a 1" diameter 5' long pipe running up the stove pipe that is vented to the back of the stove. Apparently this was some attempt to introduce secondary air and reduce creasote. There would not have been room to put a damper in with that running up the stovepipe. Btw it's an Earth stove. The PO cut it off so I am able to use a damper.

 

Wow I would have liked to have gotten the XL. My dream stove.

 

As I mentioned earlier with “any” stove set to cruise what’s the probability of closing the pipe damper and seeing stove and pipe temperatures increase?

 

You have to have enough flow up the stack to stay above 250⁰ all the way to the cap. You can close the damper and see a rise in stove and pipe temp, but the pipe after the damper will get cold because there is not enough hot gas flow to maintain temp.

There are sweet spots with every setup, but you need to measure the flue cap temp to have solid numbers.

I like to watch the steam coming out of my chimney. You can see if it is condensing in, at, or near the cap and make adjustments. I like to have a few inches between the cap and the condensing steam. That keeps things clean. Our chimney looks like a locomotive stack when it gets near zero or below with a huge white plume blowing across the yard, only to vanish rught before your eyes.

 

I like that stainless stove pipe and the two heavy boat anchors.

 

This is our stove set up at the cabin with the original single black wall stove pipe with no damper that I installed in 20oo. It runs straight up over 20’ which includes the two sections of stainless double wall insulated pipe that goes through the ceiling and out the top.

When I have taken it all apart and cleaned it there is just some dust/soot all the way to the cap. It is our sole heat source there, and we run it mid-September through mid-May, which equals a total of about 6 weeks total weeks in an average a year.

I check the pipe continually for corrosion, but it is still solid after over 23 years in our particular use case.

 

Our cookstove will cruise for hours at 300-325 pipe temp without change. It gives lots of heat.

 

I haven’t been able to locate any stainless stove pipe. Class A, yes, I can find class A stainless, but no stainless stove pipe.

 

Pictures please. Which model cookstove. We’re seriously considering that route, but with possibly an antique coal cook range…if I can find one small enough. If I get a coal range I can also burn wood in it. For a modern range I “was” considering the Heco but it may be too much, especially with wood in its belly since wood needs to he so hot to burn clean.

 

It is available lots of places.
We have a lil amish metal shop near here that makes it...MUCH cheaper than this is, but its been a couple years since I bought any too (pre 2020)
www.lowes.com/pd/DuraVent-48-in-L-x-6-in-Dia-Stainless-Steel-Stove-Pipe/5014958063

 

Hi!