Took the paper gasket off and used some Hylomar instead. Vacuum tested with tape over the exhaust and intake ports and it will at least hold some pressure now. I can hear it hissing through the tape so I know the tape isn’t holding well. Have a heifer calf ( imagine that ) who thinks it’s a good idea to walk over the electric fence I have that keeps them in their winter paddock. Her mom’s name is coincidentally Princess. So I need to get that taken care of before she pocks my good pasture up more. I’ll test it again tomorrow with some pieces of rubber blocking the ports. Thank you everyone for the ideas / help.
Piece of that rubber between the muffler and cylinder is much better then any tape . You want it to hold that 7psi for at least 30sec or so and while you have the pressure on it rotate the crank to make sure the seals hold . Ernie
I have the infamous 372 clutch side O ring leak. Getting a very slow leak when doing the pressure test. Pulled the clutch, and the worm gear for the oil pump off. Sprayed some WD in there and it was gone. Pulled the bushing off and it got worse. Made sure the O ring was seated correctly. Don’t have a bolt to swap into the decompression valve, noticed when I spin it, the pressure doesn’t go down as fast. Should I double up the O ring ? When the crank and bushing heat up, shouldn’t it help seal all of that up better too.
Did you lube the orings before installing? Depending on how hard they are to put on, it can be easy to nick one, especially if dry. I lightly grease them before installing, unless its for coolant or something. I have never done a V/P test with a decomp valve in, but I suspect a slow leak might be typical...easy enough to change out if its a problem later on. As far as doubling up, it would be very unusual to have the room to put 2 in the place where 1 normally fits and does the job...or that it would help if it did fit.
No lube when I put it on. It “rolled on there” pretty easily, maybe it did get nicked during the process. Definitely not getting it off without tearing it up. I’ll see if I can find a bolt to fit the decompression valve tomorrow.
Put sealant inside the bushing on the crank Motoseal,yamabond,dirko whatever You like. I've had 7 or 8 new clone 375/372s in my shop that didn't even have the oring That's how they used to sell them i guess. I put orings in them about 6 year's ago and sealed them they are still running today.
Some sealant or pack with grease. Torque the clutch properly to tighten everything down on that side. Stihl 044s have a similar design.
There's a Farmertec Facebook group that I'm apart of and one of the owners of Farmertec made a video in late 2022 stating that the O ring wasn't needed but they now they are going to start shipping kits with them anyways. Seems like a oxymoron to me. I'll get it sealed up or put some grease on it today and see if I can get pressure to hold.
Today’s laugh Choked it, pulled about five or six times, nothing. Figured what the heck give a few more pulls and it finally turned over. Pushed the choke in and it was screaming so I hit the kill switch. Double checked and adjusted the carb screws to 1.5 turns out. Cranked and cranked and cranked. Pulled the plug out, pulled the cord to get the gas out. Wouldn’t turn over. Pushed the kill switch in, back in business. Adjusted the low side and got the idle down. Need to get the rest of the goodies on it and get the carb adjusted. Friend is going to give me a lesson on how to adjust. It’s definitely running rich now on the high side. I smell like I’ve be running Stihl two cycle oil. I’ve never been so happy to hear a chainsaw start !!!!
Sounds familiar. You were a lot more confident than I was that it would start. What was your break in procedure ? Did you change the muffler out ? That seems to be a common mod.